How to tile a countertop

How to tile a countertop

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If you’re updating your kitchen, there are a few things you can do to rejuvenate your existing laminate countertop. One option is to install granite tiles on top of the laminate. You can also install ceramic tiles on an existing countertop. Both are simple enough to be made by skilled DIY enthusiasts. With some of the newer products on the market, you don’t even need to take off the old laminate or put down cemento backer board to lay the top of the tiles. Before starting the project, remove everything from the countertop. It’s easier to reset the sink than to tile around it, so remove it as well.

Prepare the counter

Measure and cut the fiberglass reinforced paper to cover the entire table top and edges.

Apply a 1/8 inch thick layer of tile adhesive to the entire surface of the countertop. Use a 1/8-inch notched trowel to evenly distribute the adhesive. Also apply glue to the edges of the countertop. Put the paper on the glue and smooth it with a spatula. Remove any air bubbles in the paper with a spatula.

Mix the mortar in a thin layer with water to the consistency of mashed potatoes and spread a thin layer on the paper, smoothing it with the smooth side of the trowel. This layer acts as an anti-scratch layer, binding the paper to the mortar layer on which the ceramic or stone tiles are laid. If the tabletop has low stitches, use this layer to even out. Apply additional mortar to the front third of the tabletop if the laminate has a bull point edge. This will eliminate the bull’s nose and allow you to lay the tiles along the front edge of the countertop. Allow the thinset to dry for at least an hour before proceeding.

Install the tile

Arrange the tiles along the countertop as you plan to lay them. Use spacers in all four corners of each to keep the lines straight and the tiles positioned correctly. Plan the layout so that the cut tiles flow along the edge of the countertop. Remove the tiles from the countertop in the order you plan to lay them.

Measure and cut tiles that are too long to fit the countertop with a tile cutter. Mark the location of the cut and draw the tile cutter’s blade along the mark to score the tile. Tear off the short side. If you have several tiles to cut, use a wet saw with a diamond blade. Mark the tiles with masking tape if you don’t see the cut line. If necessary, trim the side plates as well.

Stir the thin mastic until it looks like mashed potatoes. Spread a little on the front and side edges of the countertop using a 1/4-inch notched trowel. Spread additional mortar on the back of each perimeter tile. This process of gluing the back of the plate is called butter. Provides the edges with added strength to adhere to the vertical surface. Put the border tiles in place with the spacers between them.

Stir in the thinnest mashed potato mastic. Spread it to a 1/4 inch thickness with a 1/4 inch notched trowel. If your table is large, divide it into sections. Arrange the tiles in a thin set. Tap each tile to secure it firmly in the grout. Place spacers in each corner of the tiles to keep the joints straight. Check the tile surface periodically with a carpenter’s levelto make sure it is level. Once the tiles are solid, remove the spacers and let the grout dry overnight.

Mix the dough with water until the consistency of mashed potatoes. Spread the mortar into the joints with a joint trowel. Remove excess grout with a clean, damp sponge. Frequently rinse the sponge in clean water. When your finger no longer leaves any marks in the grout, smooth the joints with a rounded object such as a pencil or the tip of a brush.

Remove the mist from the tile grout on the countertop with a soft cloth.

Apply the grout sealant a week or two after the grout has hardened. Use a small brush to apply the sealant.

NEW TILE WORKTOP

The old chipped, layered or plain and worn ant involves the complete replacement of the countertop.

Glazed ceramic tiles (compared to granite): economical, easy to maintain, greater choice of style and finish.

Turn off the water, disconnect the water lines and siphon P (socket wrench). Block the wall pipe with rags. Lift the top of the taps, unscrew and remove. Loosen the “threaded valve washers” (touch the “ratchet” with a screwdriver). Metal sinks are equipped with clamps, cast iron sinks are sealed. Remove the zip ties or cut the gasket and pull the sink.

Cut the ant on the backsplash / counter interface with a drywall cutter. Select the top of the splashback and remove it with a crowbar. Pry the wooden block to protect the drywall.

The worktops are screwed from below to the corner blocks in the cabinets. Remove the screws and hit the UP table with a block of wood and a hammer, lifting it evenly to the full length, piece by piece. To start, use a hammer, chisel, and / or crowbar. Save as a measurement template for new valve and sink openings.

New subsoil: plywood

Kitchen worktops are 25 +/- inches wide. Cut 3/4 “x 4 x 8 plywood sheets lengthwise to 24”. Place the edge of the factory plywood (uncut) ¼ “past the face of the drawer below, flush at the ends. Glue in two places, pre-drill undersized pilot holes (with countersink) in the center and corners of the cabinet walls. Use # 8 x 1 ¼ “flat head, Phillips screws or 6d finish nails (marked on box). Utilizzando un vecchio piano di lavoro, segnare i fori per il lavabo e i rubinetti. Cut with a jigsaw (drill the holes for the valves and a jigsaw blade).

Cut ½” X 3’ x 5’ sheets of cemento board OUTDOORS. For best results use a table saw, but a chainsaw is fine. Pre-drill the valve with a special abrasive drill (supplied for tiles – also used for holes on a new plate). Cut the sink hole after installing the concrete panel. Vacuum up the dust as soon as possible. Glue the concrete board (construction glue tubes into the caulking gun) by arranging continuous beads around the sink opening, all edges and 3 inches inside. Drill pilot holes w/countersink for #8 x 1” FH Phillips screws and DON’T skimp on screws, esp. on the edges and on the sink.

Most kitchen sinks leave very little room for error in front and back, so create a thinner backsplash by attaching a ½ "concrete panel directly to the drywall, lower than the sockets (leave room for the tile or plug of chosen wood) and a narrow bottom for the cabinets Use construction glue and pre-drilled screws for the wall posts.

Piatto "Bullnose" (bordo anteriore)

A pre-formed bullnose with a rounded, raised corner (sock tiles, especially Home Depot) is the simplest. Remove the drawers after marking the top of the drawer surface. Attach the thin slats to the cabinets to rest the bullnose plate against them as you set the putty down. BN tiles may need to be cut to free it from the drawer surface and a wet tile saw with diamond blade is required for all tile cuts (tool rental).

If you need a wooden counter edge, choose a hardwood finish (any profile) but; 1 / the nose must protrude above the concrete panel o to accommodate the thickness of the tiles, 2 / must provide space from the front of the drawer (may need to trim the bottom with a table saw). Sand, stain and varnish before installation, as water discolours raw wood. It may be necessary to cut the surface of the stove / oven to get a bulb (drawn oven first). Install with glue and 6d finishing nails, pre-drilled. Install the wood or tiles first, then place the field tiles.

Spread the tiles on a dry surface, starting from the front and solid tiles towards the back. Use ¼ “cross spacers for the tiles (tile stock), two per tile edge. Adjust the layout as needed to avoid cutting thin tiles (meaning you may need to stack solid tiles in the center of your countertop and work outside instead of working front-to-back.) Make ALL cuts on tiles before applying sealant and drilling holes for valves. Use pre-mixed tile putty (worth the cost compared to mixing your own) and a 1/8 “serrated tile trowel (supply the tiles again). Remove part of the previously laid tile, spread the putty evenly with the flat edge of the trowel, then make “toothed” grooves (ALWAYS hold the trowel at a 45 degree angle to avoid high or low protrusions of the putty). Press the WET tiles firmly into place and strike with a rubber mallet, reusing the spacers and often checking evenness with a ruler. If floor tilesaren’t even, remove floor tilesand add or subtract puttyas needed). Remove excess putty on the joints with a screwdriver and a damp tile sponge (tile stock) to avoid “chipping” of the excess tile sealer the next day. Backsplash tiles should be set last after the counter has been set for a minimum of 2 hours. Place a 1/8 “bar on the counter plates (coat with petroleum jelly or WD-40 for easy removal once the plate has hardened) for a simple backsplash look. Install the LAST wood or tile dowel (in wooden case, let the tile adhere to the adhesive and nail in the prepared guide holes) Allow all tiles to dry overnight before grouting.

Choose cementocolor AFTER tile has set (don’t “guess”). Tile shops have home improvement brochures showing the color of the grout. Fold the brochure about potential colors and place it next to the card to decide which color is best. Tip: A light grout will show more stains than dark ones. Some grout colors are premixed, but if not, mix them in a 1-gallon bucket, adding water and stirring frequently until the grout becomes a “stiff cookie dough” consistency. Let the mortar “extinguish” for 5-10 minutes (let the water spread evenly in the mix). Apply the grout with a rubber trowel (supplied tiles), spreading it diagonally to prevent the grout from coming out of the grout. Experiment with small areas, small amounts of blend and work your way up. Remove excess mortar, always at an angle to the mortar, before proceeding further. Regularly clean the sponge, re-wet and wring it out until the squeezed water is clear. A thin layer will form for polishing the next day with dry rags. If necessary, paint the drywall again.

Place metal sinks in the glue path without the need for grouting. Grouting around cast iron sinks. Reassemble in reverse order, adjusting the valve “threaded” washers below to the appropriate “new” height. Purge P-trap before reinstalling. Clean the kitchen thoroughly to avoid complaints from the chef. Ready!

Connected with:

Materials and tools:

key
bucket
universal knife
electric drill
To measure
Carpenter’s Square
level
concrete table
plywood
Listwy drewniane 3/8"
pneumatic nailer
Śruby ocynkowane 2"
putty
notched trowel
puzzle
ceramic tiles (bull finish)
1×2 adhesive tape
tile spacers
cemento
rubber cementofloat
sponge
towels
cementosealer

Steps:

1. Begin by turning off the water shutoff valve to the sink and placing a bucketunder the supply line. Remove the coupling nuts, then the “P” trap, allowing the bucketto catch the water. Then loosen the clamps holding the sink in place and cut the gasket between the sink and the countertop with a knife. Take out the sink.

2. Remove the stove. Remove any brackets or screws securing the table top. Make sure all screws have been removed. Use a universal knifeto slice through the caulking between the countertop and wall. Remove the tops.

3. To measure la campata degli armadi inferiori, dall’angolo al bordo esterno. To measure anche la profondità dal bordo anteriore alla parete posteriore su entrambe le estremità. Using a carpentry square, check the square of the walls in all corners. Also check the levelat this point and inspect the cabinets and make any necessary repairs.

4. Have plywoodcut to size at your local home supply store (or use a circular saw). Quindi aggiungere strisce di legno da 3/8 di pollice lungo il piano di lavoro per regolare l’altezza (se necessario) utilizzando una pneumatic nailer. Position the plywoodon top of the cabinets, flush with the cabinet edge. Attach the plywoodwith two-inch screws driven into the cabinet framing every two inches.

5. Cut concrete tableto size and position it directly on top of the plywood. Remove, then add puttyto the plywoodwith a notched troweland set the backerboard on the mastic. Secure with galvanized screws. Cover the seams between the support panels with fiberglass tape. Apply a thin layer of puttyover the joint to create a smooth surface. Sweep and vacuum the surface when the puttyis dry.

6. Measure the area out for the sink and cut away the backerboard and plywoodwith a jigsaw.

7. Dry align the tiles by drawing perpendicular lines in the corner of the tabletop, using the front edge as a guide. This will provide you with a starting point for your tiles. After dry mounting, check which notches, if any, need to be made in the tiles to cover the area. The bull is also dry-sewn around the edge.

8. Attach a 1×2 adhesive tapealong the edge to support the bullnose trim until the puttydries. Using puttyand a trowel, “butter” the edge of the bullnose trim with puttyand place on the counter edge. When all the upholstery is in place, move to the counter.

9. Spread puttyon the countertop evenly with the trowel. Use the swivel motion to position the tiles, starting from the front edge of the countertop. Insert tile spacersto maintain consistency in the layout and to leave room for grout.

10. Next, spread puttyon the wall and on the back of each piece of tile and trim for the backsplash. Add a bull finish to the base of the wall where it meets the tile. Once the bar is in place, measure the wall to find the center above the stove. Create a design with trim and tiles and put it in place. Continue until the backsplash is complete.

11. Hold the tile in place around the exits and mark the cut lines with a pencil to identify the cuts to make. Use longer screws to reattach the outlets to compensate for the new plates.

12. Spread cementowith a rubber cementofloat into the joints. Make sure the joints are flush with the surface. When the cementofirms up, scrape excess grout. Give the floor tilesa good cleaning with a damp sponge, being careful not to pull any of the cementout of the joints. When the surface is dry, polish and polish the tiles with a dry cloth. Leave to harden for 48 hours. Apply a cementosealer with a sponge.

13. After the sealant has cured, the design is ready. This installation takes around 3 days and costs around $ 1,500.

Entertainment on the terrace, in the garden or in the courtyard can be improved by buildingtop of the tiles. Outdoor cooking takes a lot of work and time, but it’s worth it. The following steps will show you how to turn an existing countertop into an outdoor top of the tiles.

Step 1: Cut the wood

When first creating an outdoor top of the tiles you need to know how large you are going to make it. Remember that the tiles are square and measure 12 x 12 inches.

Use the To measureand collect the measurement of the base or existing counter starting with the width. You can make your new tabletop as wide as you want, as long as the existing base supports it.

Dopo aver determinato la lunghezza e la larghezza, ora puoi trasferire queste misure sul foglio di plywood. If you are creating an “L” shape, measure each section separately. In this case, more than one sheet may be needed. After measuring the length and width, cut them out.

With the width recorded, you can now measure the length. If you are building an “L” shaped table top, use the thicker parts to determine the length. For 12×12 inch square tiles, the corner width should be 12×12 inch.

To measure il perimetro del piano del tavolo e tagliare pezzi di legno da 1/2 x 1/2 pollice per adattarli. Next, place the tile next to the 1/2 x 1/2 inch pieces of wood and mark the height of the tile.

Step 2: Frame the table top

Place the cut pieces of plywoodon top of the base then nail it in place.

Apply wood glue along a line of 1 / 2×1 / 2-inch pieces of wood and glue around the perimeter. When the glue has secured the wood in place you can then nail it to the plywoodto keep it there. Continue around the perimeter until it is completely closed.

Step 3: test run and paint

The final step will be to glue the tiles in place. Before actually gluing them down, however, you want to place them on to the plywoodsurface you nailed down to ensure they all fit. Once the dry installation is complete, you can remove the tiles and set them aside for later.

Assicurati di trovarti in un’area ben ventilata e quindi applica una mano di vernice sul plywood. If necessary, apply a second coat. What will happen is that the wood will take on a metallic appearance that will blend seamlessly with the tile.

Step 4 – Laying the tiles

Once the paint is dry, you can start applying glue to the tiles and lay them on the countertop. Make sure the tiles are adjacent to the wooden perimeter and to each other.

After trying the tiles, rinse them with mild soap and water.

How to tile a countertop

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Countertops aren’t limited to indoor kitchen settings, which means outdoor countertops can be stacked similarly to create your own patio or porch kitchen. While the same basic installation protocols are used, there are some add-ons for outdoor installations that help the entire installation withstand the elements and ensure that the investment will last for years.

Plywood for exteriors

Il plywood o OSB (oriented strand board) viene utilizzato all’interno per fungere da piano del tavolo, che costituisce la base per qualsiasi materiale del piano del tavolo. In outdoor settings, however, you must use exterior-grade plywoodsince it uses moisture-resistant glues within to hold the sheets together. Per ottenere i migliori risultati, usa uno strato di plywood di almeno 3/4 di pollice di spessore, ma puoi aggiungere doppi strati se hai bisogno di una parte superiore più spessa per abbinare un bordo personalizzato come un berretto toro o un rivestimento in legno.

Board and waterproofing

Le floor tiles non devono mai essere montate direttamente sul plywood. Invece, usa un cemento o un pannello di fibra. Concrete is the preferred choice for outdoor installation, but it works. After applying a thin layer of mortar to the top of the deck, the sheets can be screwed or nailed every few inches. Then apply some form of waterproofing: latex paint or a membrane system. This provides additional protection for the plywoodfrom moisture damage over the years.

Time and drying

Standard laying procedures apply, which means that the tile is laid on a thin-layer mortar layer, which is troweled onto the surface of the waterproof concrete / fiber slab and grouted after the laying is dry. However, in outdoor settings, you have to take into account the weather, since thinset and cementohave a recommended temperature requirement to ensure a proper bond and curing. Each manufacturer has slight variations in temperature requirements, but the average is between 50 and 100 degrees Fahrenheit. Humidity affects curing time, and you should cover the installation if there is any rain present during the first 72 hours of the cementocuring.

Sealing

Ceramic tile installations and glazed porcelain are nonporous, but the cementojoints are cemento based, which means they are susceptible to moisture. Natural stones are porous. These components must be sealed to prevent water damage over time. In addition, don’t cementothe joint where the countertop and the backsplash meet, as this should be caulked to allow for movement and expansion. The application of the sealant depends on the manufacturer and can be sprayed, painted or scrubbed on the surface.

Tim Anderson has been a freelance writer since 2007. His publication has been published online by GTV magazine, Home Anatomy, TravBuddy, MMO Hub, Killer Guides and Delegate2. He spent over 15 years as a tile and stone contractor in the third generation before moving on to freelance writing.

When you decide to use a tile on the countertop, you should also take into account the appearance of the edge of the countertopbefore buying the counter tiles. Border options can be limited by the crop box; especially if you want to use the same color of the tiles on the edge as on the countertop. There are four ways to get the finished edge of a tiled countertop:

  1. Wooden batten – not recommended
  2. Border Strip – embossed decorative tiles
  3. Bullnose tiles – tiles with a tapered, glazed edge
  4. V-caps Tiles – Tiles that curl around the edge of the countertop

V-hooded tiles finish the edge of a tiled patio

Tiled counter with wooden edge

Wood edging is the cheapest and least desired option. Wood does not provide a long lasting, durable solution in a kitchen, especially around wet areas such as a sink. However, it is easy to replace and can add a nice touch to your closets. if you will be using a wood edging strip, attach a 1×2 strip to the surface of the countertop with the top edge above the countertop.

The tiled top is finished with a wooden slat

Bench for tiles with perimeter band and toro tiles

If you can’t find V-Cap tiles to cut the edge of the countertop, consider using a decorative or embossed strip. This option will be more expensive than using a field plate and may be more expensive than a V-cap, depending on the border strip. Make sure you purchase a torus tile with the same glaze as the rest of the countertop. Alternatively, you can create a border strip with glazed tiles or decorative caps. If you are using bullnose tile for your edge, a batten of the same thickness as the edge tile plus 1/8 inch for the thickness of the grout should be attached to the face of the countertop so that the countertop is flush with the work surface.

The tiled floor is finished with a border strip

A bar plate can be used to create a border strip

Decorative caps can be used to create the border

Plate counter with field plates and bull plates

This solution is the cheapest of the three options that use a tiled border. Multiple cuts can be avoided if the counterplate is of a format that matches the width of the counter (eg 1 “x 2”). Install the same as the edge tape.

Bullnose tile finishes the edge of the tiled top

You can also use a bull tile to finish the edge of a tiled window. For something else, place the Bullnose plates on the wall surface instead of in the recess. If so, place the recessed plates first, then the bullnose.

Plate counter with V connection

For a professional, maintenance-free look, consider using a special type of trim plate called a V-cap. V-plates are expensive; but you will save on installation costs. They tend to break easily before being installed; so buy about 10% more than you need. To install the V-cap plates, a 1×2 bar screwed along a reference line will ensure straightness.

Dry lay the tiles, using spacers, before laying. L-shaped counters need to be tiled starting from the corner and running outward. All other worktops start with the sink to ensure even cuts on both sides of the sink. To avoid having to cut very narrow tile segments, you may need to move the starting point.

The tiled top is finished with a wooden slat

You can lay the tiles on a laminate countertop. Just make sure that it is square, leveland structurally sound. The surface must be sanded before laying the tiles to ensure adequate adhesion. Jeśli musisz usunąć istniejący blat, wykręć śruby spod blatu i w razie potrzeby odetnij klej konstrukcyjny nożem.

Tiled countertops aren’t as popular as they once were. Solid surface worktops such as granite and more recently Silestone and quartz have become the new standard. However, the designers here often mention that a client who installed tiled countertops many years ago loves them and still prefers them. Tiles are still a great choice for countertop as they offer great value for money, great durability, and endless design possibilities.

How to tile a countertop

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Available in a variety of colors and styles, the tiles have advantages as a countertop material as they are resistant to heat, moisture, scratches and stains. When you’re stuck with a dated-looking top of the tiles, though, it may no longer seem like a good choice. Since removing and replacing tiles is an expensive project, it may seem like you’re stuck. But with the right supplies and a little creativity, you can update the look of your tile counter to make it more modern and not so ugly.

Paint the tile floors

If a tacky color is making your top of the tiles look dated, painting it is an easy way to update it. Paint may seem like an unconventional idea for the surface of the tiles, but if you prepare it well, the ceramic tile absorbs the paint well.

In a puttychen or bathroom, a top of the tiles may have dirt, grease, mildew and other residue on its surface. Scrub with a mild, abrasive cleanser and rinse to remove all sticky substance. You will also need to matte the glossy surface so that the paint adheres better. Use 100 to 200 grit sandpaper to thoroughly sand the countertop, then remove dust to ensure a clean surface.

When it comes to painting, the two-component epoxy formula works best because the countertop is badly battered, especially in the kitchen where it is used as a countertop, or in the bathroom where it is often wet. We also recommend that you use a high-quality oil-based primer as this can help the paint adhere to the tile more effectively. Follow all instructions for your chosen paint product to achieve a smooth, high-quality finish.

Add temporary tile stickers

If your countertop paint is a little too persistent for your taste, give your tile a modern update with temporary tile stickers. Decals, also known as tile tattoos, are essentially large stickers designed specifically to match kitchen and bathroom tiles. They are waterproof and easy to remove when you want to change the look of your countertop.

Tile stickers come in a wide variety of colors and designs, so you can find an option to complement the rest of your decor. For a simple look, choose sturdy stickers that will allow you to create a checkerboard look on your countertop. It’s an ideal option if your top of the tiles is a bold color that overwhelms your puttychen because you can cover half of it with black or white decals.

If you want a little more style, go for tile stickers with a bold pattern. A simple geometric pattern with squares, circles or triangles provides a modern look. For a fun touch, consider a graphic design with colorful animals or other images that match your room’s theme.

Coprilo con il cemento

If your top of the tiles is seriously dated, paint or decals may not be enough to help it. But there is still no need to tear it up and replace it. Zamiast tego użyj betonu samolevelującego, aby pokryć całą powierzchnię i stworzyć gładki, nowoczesny wygląd blatu.

Dovrai carteggiare la piastrella per consentire al cemento di aderire e creare stampi per ogni sezione del piano di lavoro per mantenere il cemento in posizione mentre si asciuga. After placing it, no one will guess that there is a tile under it. After the concrete has hardened, the molds can be removed and concrete sealer applied to protect the new countertop from nicks and dings.

Prima di iniziare a spostare il cemento sui ripiani, assicurati che possa sostenere il peso. Anche un sottile strato di cemento aumenta il peso della superficie. Potrebbe essere necessario rafforzare i controsoffitti prima di aggiungere cemento.

Decorate around

Sometimes you can create a modern look without redoing top of the tiless. Highlighting existing modern features can distract from your outdated countertop. An avocado green top of the tiles may make your puttychen look like it’s stuck in the 1970s, but if you repaint your wood cabinets in a crisp white or sleek black paint and add stainless steel appliances, the entire space has a contemporary feel even with the green countertop. In your bathroom, distract from the turquoise countertop with a shower curtain with a fun and bold print.

How to tile a countertop

hdswt108_2counter_back

Connected with:

Before starting this project, you need to decide on a tile pattern for your finished countertop. Outlining the size of the space can help determine the best layout. Here’s how to install a countertop:

Materials and tools:

plywood
nail
floor tiles
mortar
cemento
putty
hammer
circular saw
pneumatic nail gun (option)
tagliafloor tiles
trowel
sponge
sega per floor tiles bagnata

Steps:

1. Turn off all sink water supply lines and drain the water from the faucet lines. Remove the sink fasteners in place and remove the sink. Remove the old countertop by striking with a hammerin an upward motion on the underside of the counter. Then take out the whole piece by hand.

2. Disegna le dimensioni del piano del tavolo sul plywood, compreso un posto adatto per il lavandino. Cut the drawn shape with a circular saw. Remember to walk slowly and make a smooth cut.

3. Nail the new tabletop in place.

4. Cut all the tile pieces needed with the sega per floor tiles bagnata.

5. Spread mortarover the countertop, moving the trowelat 45-degree angles to the wood.

6. Place the floor tileson the countertop in the desired pattern, working on the border first and then filling in the middle.

7. Allow płytputtyo set.

8. Mix the cementoin a bucket, according to the manufacturer’s instructions, and pour it onto the countertop.

9. Using the trowel, pull the cementoat 45-degree angles to the floor tilesand make sure to fill in all the crevices.

10. Use a damp spongeto wipe off all excess cementobefore it dries completely.

11. If installing a sink in the countertop, place puttyaround the opening and put the sink back in place. Reconnect the water lines and turn on the water.