How to remove rust from a blade

How to remove rust from a blade

Have you just opened your grandfather’s trunk where you found an old and rusty pocket knife? You must be thinking to keep it and use it, but do you know how to remove rust from that pocket knife of yours?

Rust is something that directly affects the performance of a pocket knife. Even a slightly older knife that you didn’t use for some time will rust.

Today, you are going to get informed about some of the most interesting and effective methods to clean your old pocket knife. Most of the pocket knife brands have started using stainless steel in the blades of their knives, but the quality varies.

As a pocket knife lover, you need to be aware of these important things so that you will not have to throw away the old pocket knives from your precious collection.

We’ll guide you towards the best ways to remove rust from your pocket knife.

How To Remove Rust From A Pocket Knife?

Here are 6 of the most effective ways that can help you remove rust from your pocket knife. By following these natural methods, even your cheap pocket knives will remain functional for years.

Scrubbing Is A Good Idea

Everyone wants to use high-end knives that promise durability and functionality. However, it depends on how you treat your pocket knives. For a nice beginning, trying to remove rust from the knife with simplicity seems a nice idea.

If your knife is not rusted severely, you can simply scrub it and you are done. Use a wire brush, and an old toothbrush, tin foil, steel wool, or sandpaper to scrub off the rust from your pocket knife.

Baking Soda

You must have heard a lot about the cleaning benefits of baking soda. Baking soda has a lot of potential to cut the rust with its chemical formation.

Intelligent housewives know the right use of baking soda, but this is going to be an addition to your knowledge. You can use baking soda for cleaning your pocket knives as well.

White Vinegar For Stubborn Rust

If your pocket knife is dealing with some serious rust issues that have grown stubborn, white vinegar will be on the rescue. White vinegar is acidic, which is why it can easily make rusty things shine again.

People also use white vinegar for cleaning their old jewelry and other ornaments.

Can Coke Help?

Have you seen people paying shiny new coins everywhere and you just wonder where they get them from? Coke is the answer. Dropping your coins in a glass of cola will instantly make them new, and same is with your pocket knives.

Easy Peasy Lemon Squeezy

Cleaning your pocket knife with a lemon is probably the easiest way to get rid of the rust. Lemon removes rust by dissolving it. You have to be sure that you don’t leave the juice on your knife for too long to save it from getting damaged. You can also add some vinegar with the lemon juice for guaranteed results.

Consult Mr. Potato

Ever thought that a potato will be the savior of your pocket knife? Well, now it will.

Conclusion

No matter what method you choose from the above-mentioned ones, be sure you clean and dry your pocket knives properly. If you keep them wet, they will remain vulnerable to get rusty again.

We hope that with these simple and natural methods, removing rust from your pocket knives will not be a daunting task.

Introduction: Restoring Antique Hand Saw Using Home Remedy for Rust Removal

How to remove rust from a blade

How to remove rust from a blade

How to remove rust from a blade

My son Gabriel found this hand saw while hiking near our ranch and he asked me to restore it. He has taken a liking to woodworking and wanted bring this saw back from the dead so that he could use it. The saw was in bad shape, the wood had been hollowed out by termites, and the blade was rusted with at least 20 years of being exposed to the elements. We developed a plan and decided that we would try to remove the rust using electrolysis (or Electrolytic reaction) so that we could preserve the integrity of the blade.

Step 1: Items You Will Need

  1. Old rusty saw or tool
  2. sacrificial iron (rod or old railroad spike, or anything that made of iron that you don’t need)
  3. Baking Soda
  4. Bucket
  5. Wood to remake handle
  6. Chicago style screws to replace screws.
  7. Car Batter Charger

Step 2: Before Photos

This is the saw before we started. The wood needs complete replacement, the blade is rusted completely. Don’t wire brush or sand or file until you remove the rust first. Wire brushing too soon can cause extreme pitting, and further damage the blade. The goal is to safely remove the rust from the blade and use a wire brush to gently remove any remnants of rust after the electrolysis removal method.

Step 3: Remove the Handle

Remove the handle from the saw blade. I was able to salvage on scew and bolt, the other was rusted shut and required a hack saw for removal. I intend to salvage the one screw and bolt to show the age of the piece. You can replace all the screws if you desire.

Step 4: Rust Removal Using Electrolysis

This Home made remedy for rust removal can be used on all your metal tools and parts that require rust removal. Make sure to be in a well vented environment away from open flames.

  1. Fill your bucket with warm water.
  2. add 1 table spoon of baking soda per gallon of water and stir until dissoled. (if you use four gallons of water that would be 4 table spoons)
  3. Attach your sacrificial iron to your positive lead and place in the solution inside your bucket. (DO NOT PLACE your clamp or clips inside the solution they wil rust or be damaged.
  4. Attach your rusted tool on the Negative clam and place in the solution (make sure not to touch the negative positive leads inside the solution.)

Turn the power on. You should notice that the negative side were the rusty tool is will begin to fizz and bubble . This bubbling is hydrogen gas escaping from the electrolytic reaction. The negative charged ions fromt he rust will separate and migrate to the positive side depositing on the sacrificial iron. This step will take anywhere from 30 min to 24 hours depending on the amount of rust and amps of electricity being used.

After the rust has been removed use a wire brush to gently remove any remaining debri or stubborn rust, and immediatley treat the blade with a rust inibitor or oil.

Step 5: Handle Replacement.

Take your wood and trace the handle to be replaced.

HiPlainsGrifter

I’m sure this has been asked before so apologies in advance. I have a Benchmade Model 32 with a D2 Tool Steel blade and though I’ve tried to keep it dry, it has developed some light rust spots on the blade. I guess this a the down side of low chromium content in one’s blade steel. I’ve tried Sentry Solutions dry lubricant but no luck. Any suggestions on how to clean up the blade?

matt1987

  • Mar 31, 2013
  • #2
  • Planterz

    • Mar 31, 2013
  • #3
    • Mar 31, 2013
  • #4
  • Invective

    • Apr 1, 2013
  • #5
  • co556guy

    • Apr 1, 2013
  • #6
  • Ouch, I hate rust.

    Steel wool or sand paper are usually what I use, but I’d try the less abrasive methods suggested above before you resort to these, as you are going to have to deal with the consequences of more abrasive methods (scratches, etc).

    I had a 1095 blade rust on me because I went working outside and got the sheath all sweaty. was long enough to leave etching.

    TotinCh1p

    • Apr 1, 2013
  • #7
  • sours

    • Apr 1, 2013
  • #8
  • Obsessed with Edges

    • Apr 1, 2013
  • #9
  • 10.5-11%), than in other carbon steels like 1095 or O1, with less than 1% or none, in the case of 1095. So the rust shouldn’t be too deep and should come off fairly easy.

    My favorite method is the Bar Keepers Friend, as suggested. BUT, be careful with it, because the oxalic acid in it (which is why it works so well) can also etch the steel if it’s left on the blade too long. I use the powder form of the product, mixed to a paste with water, and applied to specific spots with a Q-tip. Wet the blade first. The acid will do almost all the work (or all, if the rust is light). Rub with the Q-tip for no more than 30-60 seconds or so, and thoroughly rinse it off.

    To rescue your classic tools requires patience, sturdy abrasives—and vision.

    How to remove rust from a blade

    If you love tools, you’ve probably experienced the odd, magnetic power that old, rusted tools possess. They capture your attention and pull you in. The next thing you know, you’re scraping away rust with your thumbnail, trying to make out the manufacturer’s name.

    As foggy memories flood back, you try to recall how exactly you came to own this neglected tool. Perhaps you got it at a tag sale or maybe your father passed it down to you. Or, had you borrowed it from a neighbor and forgot to return it? “Everybody has them, these little hidden jewels,” says contributing editor Richard Romanski, a fine woodworker and unrepentant tool collector. “Restoring them is pretty easy.”

    We gathered a bunch of forlorn rusted tools and went to work in his studio, a cavernous former church in North Salem, New York. And we discovered that all it takes is some basic chemistry, a little patience, and some elbow grease to restore old, rusted tools to like-new condition. Here’s a detailed account of how we removed years of rust from a table saw, some corroded hand tools, and a few dull precision-cutting tools.

    A rusty, wobbly table saw

    How to remove rust from a blade

    A table saw that’s kept in an unheated garage, shop, or barn will soon rust. Moisture condenses on its steel and cast-iron parts because they’re cooler than the surrounding air. Then it’s only a matter of time before you start to see rusting and pitting.

    The rust isn’t only unsightly, it also makes it difficult to slide wood across the table, which should be perfectly smooth. And rust can affect adjustable mechanisms, too, making it hard to raise and lower the blade or tilt the blade for executing bevel cuts. We found the circa-1980 Craftsman table saw shown above at a church auction. Its table was badly rusty and its parts had been thrown out of alignment. But it only cost $80 and we knew we could restore it to good working order.

    We knew we had to move the saw to a warm, dry location, so we unbolted it from its rolling stand, hoisted it into a Ford F-150, and drove it down the street to Romanski’s studio workshop. Next came the tedious disassembly process: We unbolted the cast-iron wings from each side of the saw table and then removed the motor. Tip: Take photos of the saw and label each part prior to disassembly. That’ll make it easier to reassemble everything later.

    We were pleasantly surprised to discover that the saw had a commercial-duty motor with twin capacitors—one to start the motor turning and another to provide extra kick to the run winding. The motor’s shaft and pulley were all in good shape, but everything was caked in dust and cobwebs. We used compressed air to quickly clear out of the saw’s cavity and undercarriage.

    Now it was time to remove rust from the saw’s table and extension wings. We started by wetting the surfaces with kerosene, which acted as a cutting lubricant. After letting kerosene penetrate for about an hour, we buff away the rust using a variable-speed drill outfitted with a 2½-inch-diameter nylon cup brush that’s embedded with 240-grit aluminum oxide abrasive. We ran the drill slowly at around 500 rpm, and move it back and forth across the surface for several minutes. The cup brush removed the rust without marring the surface. We then mounted the wings back onto the saw and aligned them flush with the saw table by carefully tapping them with a dead-blow mallet.

    Tools grow dull, and when they grow dull they are set aside, and when they are set aside they rust.

    After placing a new 10-inch carbide-tipped saw blade on the arbor, Romanski used a machinist’s square to ensure the blade was perfectly perpendicular to the table. With the blade at 90 degrees, the pointer indicator on the saw’s tilt scale should read 0 degrees; if it doesn’t, move the pointer to the zero mark. Next, we adjusted the sliding fence and its locking mechanism to ensure it locked securely and was perfectly parallel with the blade.

    The tune-up was completed when Romanski reinstalled the motor and used a long steel ruler to align the motor pulley with the pulley on the saw’s arbor shaft. That’s an important step because if the pulleys aren’t aligned, excessive vibration will prematurely wear out belts and bearings. We then buffed paste wax onto the restored metal surfaces to help deter future rusting, bolted the saw back onto its stand, and made several test cuts. The saw ran smoothly, cut effortlessly, and looked great!

    Corroded hand tools

    How to remove rust from a blade

    Rusty hand tools seem to turn up everywhere: in sheds, basements and garages; in old, forgotten toolboxes; in car trunks; and, of course, at tag sales all across the country. Often the original wooden handles are cracked, rotted, or missing altogether. And the steel heads are so badly rusted you could get tetanus by just looking at them.

    To restore a pile of ball-peen-hammer and a couple of hatchets, we first had to remove what was left of their handles. We used a handsaw to cut the handle stubs flush with the tool heads, then we clamped each head in a vise and used a hammer and punch to knock out the last bit of the handle.

    How to remove rust from a blade

    To dissolve years of corrosion, we submerged the heads in a bucket containing a gallon of white vinegar. We covered the bucket with a piece of plywood and let the parts soak for about four hours. Next, we scrubbed off the surface rust with Grade 1 steel wool. It didn’t remove all the rust, but there was a noticeable difference. Back into the vinegar the tool heads went, and this time we let them soak overnight. Next, we buffed them again with steel wool, and all the rust came off. We rinsed the tools thoroughly in clear water to remove any last trace of vinegar and wiped them dry.

    How to remove rust from a blade

    Some of the tool heads were severely pitted, so we smoothed them with a disc sander fitted with a 100-grit abrasive disc sander. On a couple of the ball-peen hammers, the metal around the head’s striking surface had been peened over by repeated hammer blows. To repair the damage, we clamped each hammer head in a vise and then hand-file the surface smooth.

    Finally, the tools were wiped clean with mineral spirits, primed with a rust-preventive metal primer (we used spray-on Rust-Oleum), and painted with gloss alkyd enamel. The cutting edges on the hatchets were hand-honed on a series of water stones used for woodworking tools. We completed each tool by fitting a hickory handle through the cavity in the head.

    CAUTION: you are working with a live sword blade that is designed to cut. If you feel you are unable to do this safely please do not attempt this repair.

    Step 1: My Sword is Rusty

    How to remove rust from a blade

    Step one is rust prevention, but by the looks of it we will skip that for this how to segment :). Rust can and will happen if your high carbon steel sword is not cared for properly. If you find rust the best chance you have is to stop it before is causes any more damage. It may look hopeless but with a short amount of time you can get this cleaned up and if you are lucky, you may be able to completely restore your sword blade. These steps are intended for re-enactment stage swords and modern functional sword blades only, not steps for restoring antique swords. Now for the basic safety plug before we begin. Turn off the television and make sure you are free from distractions. Do not forget that a sword is designed to cut, so be very careful during this process.

    Step 2: Paper and Elbow Grease

    How to remove rust from a blade

    To remove the rust from this sword we used varying degrees of automotive sand paper. We used 220, 600 and 1500 grit wet/dry sandpaper in that order. For those who don’t know and are afraid to ask, the lower the number the more coarse the sandpaper is and you always work from coarse to finer paper. I used these grits of paper because they are what we had on hand. I may have chosen to add a 1000 grit step if I it was available at the time I started the repair. This being said you can still achieve the same result but the final sanding will take a little longer. The total amount of time it took to remove the rust was under 15 minutes and I was stopping to take photo’s during the process.

    Step 3: No More Rust

    How to remove rust from a blade

    As I had mentioned we want to start with the lowest coarse sandpaper. Simply begin working the paper back and forth over the rusted area and you will immediately start seeing results. The 220 grit will be scratching the finish on your blade which is expected. Some people like to rub in a circular motion, or with the grain but I say do what ever feels right to you. What we are doing is “scratching” the rust off off your blade. When you are finished this step the rust should be gone. If you can’t remove it all, or there is deep pitting in the steel it may have gone to far for complete restoration but you can continue to prevent further damage from occurring.

    Step 4: Almost Repaired

    How to remove rust from a blade

    After you have removed the rust with the first step you will start again with the 600 grit. There is no more rust to remove so what you are doing now is knocking down the scratches created by the first step. Continue sanding until they are smoothed out. Make sure that if there are any crevices that you work the sand paper in ensuring no hard to see rust was left on the blade. How does it look? Still see scratching or does the patch still look dull? Yes, then lets move on. No, then you can jump to the last step right now if you are happy with the finish.

    Step 5: Finished or Not Finished

    How to remove rust from a blade

    Once you have knocked down the scratches and created finer scratches it is time for round three. Repeat the last process using the 1500 grit paper. After you have worked your 1500 grit as far as it can be worked how does it look? You can keep working with the 1500 grit paper and the blade will start coming to a shine. Depending on the finish of your blade and your demand for perfection will determine when you should stop. Some blades start with a dull finish and you may have already stopped at the 600 grit step. But if your blade requires more shine you may want to repeat with a 2000 grit or higher paper.

    Step 6: Ok Really Finished

    How to remove rust from a blade

    The rust is now gone and your blade is hopefully saved. If you have trouble getting it to the shine that it was you can bring in the power tools. If you have a buffing wheel or rotary tool with a buffing attachment, use some buffing compound (I used metal glo polishing paste) and work the blade until you achieve the desired finish. Don’t concentrate on one spot for too long because you don’t want to overheat the blade which can damage the temper. If this is a sword you use for cutting make sure to inspect it for severe pitting that can weaken the blade. If this has occured remember safety first and It is time for a new sword, but this one will look great on display.

    Step 7: Don’t Repeat Step One

    How to remove rust from a blade

    Don’t repair any more rust damage by preventing it and here are some tips. Protect your swords with the products we use, Hanwei sword oil or Renaissance Wax. Never store or display your swords in a scabbard. The wood or leather traps moisture which transfers directly to your blade. It doesn’t have to get wet, changes in climate and humidity can cause enough to begin rusting. Always keep them protected. Don’t repeat step one.

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    HiPlainsGrifter

    I’m sure this has been asked before so apologies in advance. I have a Benchmade Model 32 with a D2 Tool Steel blade and though I’ve tried to keep it dry, it has developed some light rust spots on the blade. I guess this a the down side of low chromium content in one’s blade steel. I’ve tried Sentry Solutions dry lubricant but no luck. Any suggestions on how to clean up the blade?

    matt1987

    • Mar 31, 2013
  • #2
  • Planterz

    • Mar 31, 2013
  • #3
    • Mar 31, 2013
  • #4
  • Invective

    • Apr 1, 2013
  • #5
  • co556guy

    • Apr 1, 2013
  • #6
  • Ouch, I hate rust.

    Steel wool or sand paper are usually what I use, but I’d try the less abrasive methods suggested above before you resort to these, as you are going to have to deal with the consequences of more abrasive methods (scratches, etc).

    I had a 1095 blade rust on me because I went working outside and got the sheath all sweaty. was long enough to leave etching.

    TotinCh1p

    • Apr 1, 2013
  • #7
  • sours

    • Apr 1, 2013
  • #8
  • Obsessed with Edges

    • Apr 1, 2013
  • #9
  • 10.5-11%), than in other carbon steels like 1095 or O1, with less than 1% or none, in the case of 1095. So the rust shouldn’t be too deep and should come off fairly easy.

    My favorite method is the Bar Keepers Friend, as suggested. BUT, be careful with it, because the oxalic acid in it (which is why it works so well) can also etch the steel if it’s left on the blade too long. I use the powder form of the product, mixed to a paste with water, and applied to specific spots with a Q-tip. Wet the blade first. The acid will do almost all the work (or all, if the rust is light). Rub with the Q-tip for no more than 30-60 seconds or so, and thoroughly rinse it off.

    Introduction: How to Remove Rust From Axe Head

    How to remove rust from a blade

    How to remove rust from a blade

    I bought this axe head for 10$ from a vulgar local market that opens every saturday in my location, this market sells all stuff you can imagine, most of it is junk and used stuff.

    when you buy an axe examine carefully the head, the shape should be pleasant and workable, the most important part is the sharp edge of the axe, an edge with missing (or eaten) metal by rust is junk and time wasting, you should also examine the rest of the axe body, poll, cheek, if the damage is severe don’t mind it and move to another one.

    Step 1: Soaking in White Vinegar

    White vinegar has Acetic acid which remove rust completly :

    1. put the axe in a plastic box that has an enough height to submerge the head with acid
    2. pour white vinegar slowly, and make sure to cover the WHOLE axe, place the box in a safe place, soak it for a day and a half. after few hours of soaking you will notice rust bits removed and sitting on the box floor
    3. after the period has passed, rust will be easily removed, use a steel brush or a steel sponge to rub off all the rust on the axe, take care to also rub in the eye of the axe, where the handle will fit in.
    4. vinegar has a very strong scent so wear medical gloves and if you can, do the process outdoors.
    5. wash the axe thoroughly with hot water to remove the vinegar and its scent,
    6. clean the axe and dry it in a towel or something, it is moisture that encourages rusting so be sure to dry all surfaces including the eye

    Step 2: Complete!

    To see how i turned this into a full WARAXE, watch this :

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    Steel swords have the propensity to acquire rust. For that reason, swords require maintenance to prevent rust and, if neglected, they will need the application of appropriate rust removal techniques. Options include chemical cleaning kits, household acid cleaning, and abrasive cleaning. Each option, if done improperly, can cause additional damage to the sword blade.

    Chemical Cleaning Kits

    Mild chemical cleaning solutions, such as Nevr-Dull or compounds included in a commercial sword cleaning kit, remove light surface rust and dirt. Sword cleaning kits are available online and at specialty cutlery shops while metal cleaning solutions are easily found at auto parts and hardware stores. Rub the rust away with a small amount of the solution using a paper towel. Rust that does not respond to a cleaning solution may require a stronger chemical.

    Household Acid Removal

    Acids can also be used to remove rust, but move slowly and with care. Try lemon juice first, using a paper towel to apply the juice to the effected surface. Leave the acid on the surface of the sword, checking periodically. This may take several days to completely remove stubborn rust. If this is not successful, a stronger acid may be necessary, such as vinegar or phosphoric acid, which can be found at a local pool supply store. Again, leave the acid on the affected area, checking periodically, and remove with water and a clean paper towel once the rust has disappeared. Avoid stronger chemicals that may leave microscopic etching within minutes if unattended.

    Abrasive Cleaning Techniques

    Applying oil to the sword using a steel brush or steel wool is a common technique for removing light surface rust. Apply a small amount of oil to the rusted surface and rub, using steel wool, until the light rust is removed. Rubbing rusty steel with a piece of aluminum or copper foil and water can remove rust without scratching the harder steel used in the sword blade.

    Rust Prevention

    Rust is caused by the exposure of steel to oxygen and moisture, therefore preventing rust requires addressing those elements. Store your sword in a low moisture environment, away from humidity, and in a sealed case or display case if possible. You can also protect the surface of the blade from oxidation by covering the surface with a preventative coating, such as gun oil or car wax. Evenly apply your choice of sealant to the blade and remove the excess. A thin, invisible layer is sufficient to prevent rusting. Inspect your sword every few months to check for rust and use fine steel wool and oil to periodically clean the sword.

    Cleaning Risks

    Strong chemicals have the ability to ruin a sword. Make sure to test any new chemical or cleaning solution on a small area of the sword before applying to the entire sword. Consult a professional if rust continues to exist, as they may need to assist in the rust removal process.

    After Rust Removal

    After removing rust, remove any remaining solutions by using paint thinner or mineral spirits. Wipe the sword down and let it dry before performing any additional maintenance that the sword may require.