September 4, 2014 by Jake Thomas
(Guest post courtesy Spartan Plumbing)
At the turn of the century, pedestal sinks were quite common. However, as the years passed, more and more people wanted counter space and extra storage. Stately pedestal sinks have largely been replaced by vanities. In fact, up until a few years ago, it was difficult or impossible to find a pedestal sink unless you were willing to dig through a scrap yard or buy one for an exorbitant price from a high-end retailer. These days, that vintage look is coming back into vogue. You can find a great selection of pedestal sinks at nearly any home improvement center.
Why Choose a Pedestal Sink?
Pedestal sinks come with several advantages. Not only do they have an elegant look, but their slim profiles save space and help make bathrooms look larger. In the dampness of a bathroom, wood vanities take a lot of damage quickly, often requiring regular refinishing. Since pedestal sinks are made from metal, porcelain or ceramic, you’ll never need to refinish them. In addition, cleanup is a breeze — simply wipe your sink down with a non-abrasive cleaner to make it look as good as new.
Step One: Tear out Existing Sink and Vanity
When you’re ready to install your new pedestal sink, shut off the water supply to your existing vanity using either the valves underneath the sink or the main valve that feeds your bathroom. Use a crescent wrench to disconnect the supply lines to the sink, and a pipe wrench or channel lock pliers to take apart the drain.
Since many vanity tops are sealed to the wall, use a utility knife to cut through any caulking. Check for screws that hold the counter to the vanity, and screws that hold the vanity to the wall. After removing fasteners, you’re free to remove the vanity completely.
Step Two: Move the Plumbing
The trick to making a pedestal sink look seamless is to conceal the plumbing as well as you can. This means that the hot and cold outlets should be behind the basin, while the drain needs to be behind the pedestal. If you’re lucky, your plumbing is already exactly where it needs to be. Replace the supply line valves and then install the sink.
If you’re not so lucky, you’ll need to move the plumbing. Use a reciprocating saw to cut through wallboard so that you have an opening large enough to work in, then extend the plumbing as necessary to hide it behind the new sink. Once you’re finished with the plumbing, re-install a new piece of wallboard. It’s also a wise idea to do any painting at this point so that you don’t have to worry about painting around the sink later on.
Step Three: Install Pedestal and Sink
Just before you put the sink and pedestal in place, install the new faucet and drain assembly. Once that is finished, install the pedestal. Center it on the drain pipe, and make sure it isn’t leaning to one side or the other. You may need to use plastic shims under the base if it wobbles or doesn’t sit level. Use screws, lag screws or other hardware (according to manufacturer instructions) to fasten the pedestal to the floor.
Next, set the sink basin on the pedestal. If the pedestal is properly leveled, the basin should sit squarely on the pedestal. If the sink isn’t perfectly aligned, you can use rubber bumpers to level it, or re-level the pedestal itself. Mark the sink placement on the wall, and use the mounting hardware provided by the manufacturer — usually lag screws, mounting brackets or molly bolts — to affix the sink to the wall.
Use hard nylon shims to level pedestal base.
Step Four: Make Plumbing Hookups
Install the supply lines first, using a wrench to tighten the fittings and Teflon tape to seal the threads. Once that’s done, assemble the P-trap. If you’re using a plastic drain kit, tighten all fittings by hand first to avoid cross threading or deforming the pipe. Then use channel lock pliers to give the fittings one last partial turn to make sure they’re snug.
Now check for leaks — run the water for a few minutes and watch the new supply lines and the drain for moisture. Make sure to check again once you’ve shut the water off. Open and close the drain to make sure the drain is working. Once you’re satisfied that nothing is leaking, you can pick up your tools and enjoy your new sink!
Potential Problems Along the Way
Pedestal sink installation is usually hassle-free, but there are a couple of problems you could run into. Galvanized steel plumbing is what trips up most do-it-yourselfers. Rather than struggling with steel piping, simply use a transition coupling with rubber gaskets to join old steel plumbing to new piping of your choice. It’s best when you can use the transition coupling in your basement or someplace that can be easily accessed later in case you need to fix a leak or you want to get rid of the steel plumbing.
The sink basin will also need to be firmly fastened to a support — not just the wallboard. When you have the wall open to move the plumbing, make a note the location of the studs. If necessary, you can install a horizontal support between studs before closing up the wall again. Use a piece of 2×8 lumber between studs to give yourself a wide area for anchoring the sink.
Leaks in the new plumbing are sometimes a problem too. More often than not, leaks along the supply lines or in the drain assembly are caused by over-tightened fittings. When you crank threaded fittings down too hard, they will split. In addition, too much pressure applied by pliers or a pipe wrench can deform piping. If either of these two things is causing a leak, you’ll need to replace the split fittings or bent piping.
It’ll take a bit of work to install your new sink, but the results are worth it. Your bathroom will feel larger, cleaner and more stylish. Vanities and counters just can’t match the timeless elegance of a pedestal sink.
Author Bio: Patricia Bonacorda is the President of Spartan Plumbing a plumbing and HVAC company that has assisted residential homes since opening 1964. Spartan Plumbing is a licensed, bonded and insured business that has provided professional plumbing, heating and air conditioning services throughout the DC Region.
Terry J Alcorn/Getty Images
Installing a pedestal sink can make a small bathroom feel bigger by freeing up both physical and visual space normally occupied by a vanity cabinet. Pedestal sinks also have a classic, elegant look that you just don’t get with a boxy vanity and standard sink basin. But before you rip out your old vanity to install a pedestal sink, be aware of what the project involves. You may need to make plumbing changes and flooring and wall repair as well as adjusting to a lack of storage space.
Start with some careful comparison shopping, and consider both the faucet and the sink together. Some sinks have a single faucet hole, some have the standard two holes with 4-inch spacing, and some are “widespread” with wider spacing. In fact, if the faucet is more important than the sink style, choose the faucet first, then find a sink with right hole configuration for the faucet.
When comparing pedestal sink prices, keep in mind that the sink basin and the pedestal may be priced separately. Make sure the prices you compare include both parts.
Visible vs. Hidden Plumbing
Pedestal sinks installed with the plumbing visible can look just fine, but it’s also possible for an installation to almost completely hide the plumbing. Do some research and look at examples of both types of installations before deciding. Hiding the plumbing will most likely require moving the existing water and drain lines.
If you are remodeling, it is fairly easy to move the water and drain lines to the perfect location. But if you want to avoid the additional work, keep the location of the existing plumbing in mind when you decide on what pedestal to buy. A larger pedestal base will be able to hide the plumbing better than a sleek one.
After narrowing down your choices, check the manufacturer’s bracing requirements. Bracing in the wall is often needed for anchoring the sink basin. Usually, bracing is in the form of 2×6 or 2×8 lumber added between two wall studs in the sink location. If you need this kind of bracing, you’ll have to open up the wall to install the lumber. Also, check the requirements for anchoring the pedestal to the floor. Typically, you drill a hole through the finish flooring and secure the pedestal to the subfloor with a screw.
Thick bracing can sometimes bulge through the wall. To avoid this, use thinner bracing, such as a 1×4 instead of a 2×6 or 2×8.
Most pedestal sinks are designed to be centered directly over the drain pipe in the wall, with the water pipes flanking the drain. Some pedestals give you a little wiggle room here, but at best it’s not much. If you don’t want the sink to be directly in front of the existing drain location, you’ll have to cut the drain pipe and install fittings to reroute it to the desired location. The same goes for the water pipes. Even if the drain is at the right location side to side, it might be too high or too low for the pedestal sink and will need some modification to make it work.
Since part of the drain will be visible from certain angles, it looks best if the finish of the drain trap matches the faucet and bathroom trim. If you have a chrome faucet, then you might want a nice chrome drain trap and flange. Drain traps and other fittings are available with chrome, bronze, copper, and nickel finishes. In a pinch, you can also opt for standard plastic and paint it to match the wall or sink color.
Water Supply Lines
The water supply tubing and shutoff valves should be tucked behind the base of the pedestal, if possible, to keep them out of view. The less you see of the drain and water lines, the better the pedestal will look. As with the trap, the water lines and shutoff valves should match the trim of the bathroom because they will be visible from some angles.
Floor and Wall Repair
The floor and the wall might not be finished behind the old vanity. So you may need to finish these areas, at the very least. In addition, if you have to make changes to the plumbing or add bracing in the wall, you’ll need to patch in the drywall, finish the seams, and paint the wall. To make the patching easy, cut the old drywall back to the inside edges of the studs, then add 2×2 blocking to the sides of the studs to support the new drywall and provide plenty of wood for driving in the drywall screws.
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A pedestal sink is basically a wall-hung sink with the extra support of a decorative stand. This gives the sink an elegant appearance that makes it fit well in tile bathrooms or those with Mediterranean decor. The rough-in requirements are the same as for any other sink, but the placement of the stub-outs — especially the drain stub-out — is critical and requires precise measurements. The drain stub-out must be exactly behind the pedestal, which hides the P-trap, and the supply stub-outs should be high enough to be invisible without interfering with the sink.
Consult the installation instructions for the sink for its dimensions and any specific rough-in requirements. Some sinks have built-in alcoves for the supply valves that require precise placement of the stub-outs. For others, it’s important simply to place the stub-outs close enough to the underside of the sink to be invisible.
Cut a rectangular section out of the drywall behind the sink with a drywall saw if the wall has been finished. Make the hole at least as high and wide as the sink, but you’ll have more room to work if it’s larger, and it won’t be any more difficult to repair.
Install two-by-six blocking to hold the sink, connecting it to the studs with 2 1/2-inch wood screws or 16d nails. Mark the positions of the drain and supply stub-outs, as determined by the sink specifications, using a tape measure and pencil. If the position of the drain falls between two studs, add blocking to support it.
Locate the nearest suitable drain, cut into it with a hacksaw, and glue in a plastic sanitary tee or Y-fitting with a 2-inch outlet, using plastic pipe cement. The configuration of the pipes determines which of these two fittings to use. Run 2-inch plastic pipe to the stub-out location, making sure the drain maintains a minimum slope of 1/4 inch per foot toward the drain.
Glue a sanitary tee onto the pipe at the location of the stub-out and anchor the tee to the framing with pipe straps. Glue in a horizontal length of pipe that extends several inches past the wall — you can cut it to the proper length when you install the sink. Glue on a cap.
Extend 2-inch pipe upward from the tee and tie it into the nearest available vent line. You may have to run the pipe horizontally to do this. If so, maintain a 1/4-inch-per-foot slope toward the drain.
Find suitable supply pipes from which to draw water and turn off the valves controlling these pipes. You may have to turn off the main water supply for the house.
Cut into the pipes with a pipe cutter and let the water drain into a bucket. Solder a tee with a 1/2-inch outlet onto each pipe. Run 1/2-inch copper pipe from each tee to the location you marked for the stub-out. Solder all pipes and connections with a propane torch, soldering flux and lead-free solder. For CPVC water supplies, connect with the appropriate CPVC primers and cements.
Terminate each supply line with a 90-degree brass elbow screwed to the framing. Solder a length of pipe into each elbow that is long enough to extend a few inches past the wall and solder a cap onto the pipe. You can cut the pipe to length when you install the sink.
Start to Finish
- socket wrench with 8″ extension
- slip-joint pliers
- tape measure
- adjustable wrench
- pipe wrench
- plumber’s putty
- pedestal sink
- drain assemblies
- P-trap assembly
- Teflon tape
Like this? Here’s more:
Remove the Old Sink
Shut off the water at the main. Turn the water heater to “off,” or turn the switch to the “pilot” position if it’s gas. Drain the plumbing by opening a faucet. Remove the old sink and trap.
Take off the old lavatory stops. The plumbing for a pedestal sink is exposed, so all of the plumbing, including the stops need to be new. It will also be necessary to install a new chrome lavatory stop and escutcheon cover.
Secure the New Escutcheon Covers
Using two adjustable wrenches, remove the old supply stops from the hot and cold water lines, and then remove the old escutcheon covers.
Thread New Supply
Apply Teflon tape on both stub outs, and then add new escutcheon covers by sliding the cover over the roughed in water supply. Thread new supply stops on both and use a wrench to tighten everything up. Ensure that the inlet valve is in the upright position.
Secure the New Escutcheon Covers
Using two adjustable wrenches, remove the old supply stops from the hot and cold water lines (Image 1), and then remove the old escutcheon covers (escutcheon: decorative metal shield that covers the faucet stem and the hole in the wall).
Apply Teflon tape on both stub outs, and then add new escutcheon covers by sliding the cover over the roughed in water supply.
Thread new supply stops on both (Image 2) and use a wrench to tighten everything up. Ensure that the inlet valve is in the upright position.
Unscrew the old collar nut, and then slide the new p-trap escutcheon cover over the drain hole.
Place Lavatory on Pedestal
Place the lavatory on the pedestal, and then set it in the desired location. Make sure the lavatory is level
Mark the Sink
Be sure to center the pedestal to the drain hole on the wall. Once the pedestal is centered, use a pencil to mark where the sink will sit against the wall
Place the Lavatory on the Pedestal
Place the lavatory on the pedestal, and then set it in the desired location. Make sure the lavatory is level (Image 1).
Be sure to center the pedestal to the drain hole on the wall. Once the pedestal is centered, use a pencil to mark where the sink will sit against the wall (Image 2).
Thread Hanger Bolts
Use a pencil to mark where the anchor holes will be drilled in the wall and floor. After the holes have been marked, remove the sink from the area. Install the lag screws into the wood backing behind the wall. Ensure your bit is at least a size smaller than the lag bolts so they’ll hold tight in the wall.
Thread the Hanger Bolts
Use a pencil to mark where the anchor holes will be drilled in the wall and floor. After the holes have been marked, remove the sink from the area. Install the lag screws into the wood backing behind the wall. Ensure your bit is at least a size smaller than the lag bolts so they’ll hold tight in the wall.
Drill two 1/4″ holes for the hanger bolts at the marks on the wall. Thread the hanger bolts into the wall. Leave approximately 1-1/4″ of each bolt exposed between the cap nuts and the finished wall.
Mount the Pedestal to the Floor
The pedestal sink must be mounted to the floor for stability. The technique for doing this will vary depending on the type of floor.
- For drilling into concrete, use a hammer drill and a concrete bit. Simply add a lag screw, and then snug it down with a ratchet. Be sure not to over-tighten.
- For drilling into tile, use a tile bit to drill the holes. A tile bit has a head like an arrowhead. Drill into the grout line if possible to prevent damage to the tile.
Note: Don’t apply sealant around the base of the pedestal. It could damage the floor if the sink ever needs to be moved.
Dressing the sink means to put all of the hardware on the sink before installation.
Install Spout and Handles
Use a roll of plumber’s putty around the seal to make sure it’s water tight. Insert the valve bodies into the proper mounting holes, ensuring that the valve body marked “cold” is installed to the right of the center hole. Once the valve body is in place, slide the metal washer and nut onto the base, and then tighten it down.
Dress the Sink
“Dressing” the sink means to put all of the hardware on the sink before installation (Image 1)
Install the spout and handles (Image 2) Use a roll of plumber’s putty around the seal to make sure it’s water tight. Insert the valve bodies into the proper mounting holes, ensuring that the valve body marked “cold” is installed to the right of the center hole. Once the valve body is in place, slide the metal washer and nut onto the base, and then tighten it down.
Place the seal ring over the spout body, and then insert the spout into the sink. Place the metal washer and nut onto the spout shank and tighten the nut with a wrench.
Install the hot water valve the same way as the cold water valve. Don’t forget to use plumber’s putty.
June 30, 2016
In a recent blog article that we posted we went over all of the features of a pedestal sink to determine if they are the right fit for your bathroom. Now that you are armed with that information, this weeks article will provide you with the steps to install a pedestal sink.
Step #1: Install 2×6
The first step to this DIY pluming project is to map out the location on the wall where the pedestal sink will be installed. In that location you will want to install a 2×6 between the wall studs in order to secure the sink. To do this you will need to cut out the drywall to get at the studs and then screw the 2×6 into location. At this time take into consideration whether or not your supply lines need to be moved based on your choice of sink. If they do, now would be the time to do so. When patching the drywall after the 2×6 installation be sure to do so with water-resistant drywall.
Step #2: Set The Pedestal And Sink Basin
With your 2×6 installed you are now ready to set the pedestal and sink basin in place. This is done by first placing the pedestal in its desired location and then placing the sink basin on top and temporary securing it using two 2x4s. Once in place outline the pedestal and sink basin on the floor and wall with a marker. You will also want to mark on the wall where the mounting holes are located on the sink basin.
Step #3: Secure The Pedestal
With your marker outlines in place you can set aside the sink basin and the 2x4s you were using as temporary support. Then set aside the pedestal and drill piolet holes in the floor where you have made your reference marks. Once drilled, place the pedestal back in its location and secure it to the floors with lag screws.
Step #4: Secure The Sink Basin
Now that the pedestal is in place you are now ready to secure the sink basin. Before doing so you will want to attach the faucet to the sink basin. You will also want want to drill pilot holes in the wall where you made your reference marks in step #2. Once the faucet is secure, and your pilot holes are drilled, you are ready to align the holes on the back of the sink basin with the pilot holes on the wall. Once in place you can secure the sink basin to the wall using lag screws and washers. Be sure to not over tighten.
Step #5: Hook Up The Drain and Supply Lines
The final step for this project is to hook up the drain and supply fittings. When that is complete make sure to apply some caulking between the back of the sink and the wall. You may also want to apply some caulking between the pedestal and the floor. Turn your supply lines to the on position and test your new sink for functionality and leaks.
Let Caldwell Plumbing Help
Alternatively if you would like Caldwell Plumbing to install a pedestal sink for you please book an appointment with Caldwell Plumbing today. We provide plumbing service to Toronto and the GTA as well as Ajax, Pickering, Uxbridge, Courtice, Bomanville, Whitby, Oshawa and the rest of Durham Region.
The difficult issue with pedestal sinks when you need to repair or remove plumbing, is that the plumbing, tubing, and PVC drain is hiding behind the pedestal. This leaves hardly any room to get your tools back in there to remove and fix plumbing issues.
Question: Do I need to be remove the sink from the wall and then have to repaint since pulling it from the wall?
I don’t see any toggle bolts holding it up and no kind of bracket. I hope that it is just caulked to the wall and actually supported by the pedestal. Can you give me some guidance to remove this with the least amount of effort?
Answer: The bottom portion of a pedestal is usually not bolted down. In most cases the sink portion is held in place by a wall bracket and the pedestal portion is held in place by its weight and a bead of caulk at the bottom.
- To remove the pedestal sink to gain access behind it, remove the caulk under the sink bowl and the caulk near the bottom stand at the floor.
- After this, carefully lift up the sink and slide the pedestal out. The sink bowl is usually attached on the wall mounted on a bracket and by simply lifting up on the sink it will detach from the wall.
The only thing keeping the pedestal on the bottom of the sink is the weight of the sink.
- Lift the sink about a 1/2 inch off pedestal while having someone else slide the pedestal out and then put the sink back onto the wall bracket.
- This will give you all the room you will need to repair or fix any plumbing or draining issues.
Alternative Method: You can try to replace the drain without removing the sink. This will save you from having to remove the sink and pedestal but will be more difficult as there is really no room for the wrench to turn to remove the plumbing. You could try to purchase special plumbing tools that have a shorter handle or tools that are made to gain access to tight spots.
HOW TO REMOVE A PEDESTAL SINK
Do you know of an easier method to get behind a pedestal sink to perform plumbing repairs? Please leave a detailed comment below to assist our other readers needing help.
Between hair brushes and hair tools, makeup, extra towels, toilet paper and other bathroom supplies, storage space in a bathroom is essential. If you have a pedestal sink, you may find yourself with limited storage options at first. However, there are ways to create more pedestal sink storage space.
Follow these seven ideas and you’ll have plenty of storage in your bathroom in no time:
1. Hang a shelf (or a few!)
If you have pedestal sink storage issues, add a shelf above the sink to give you easy access to things you use daily. Shelves are a great addition to any bathroom with a pedestal sink, as shelves provide storage options more than just placing things below the sink or on the floor.
Give a glass shelf a try in your bathroom above your pedestal sink. This will keep things light and airy and won’t be ruined by water that gets splashed around.
Additionally, you can install shelves around the bathroom, and don’t forget an over-the-toilet shelf. The area above your toilet is a great spot for some organizer shelves, or possibly a cabinet if you have enough room.
2. Spice things up
Add more storage to small bathrooms or bathrooms with pedestal sinks by hanging spice racks. While regular bathroom shelving ideas provide a great spot for a variety of toiletries, spice racks are especially useful to organize and store makeup on the wall.
Look for hanging spice racks such as the DecoBros 3 Tier Wall Mounted Spice Rack.
3. Purchase under sink shelving
Pedestal sink storage or storage with a wall-mounted sink without cabinets can be tricky. RAGRUND shelves from IKEA can help you solve this issue. Theses shelves are specifically designed to fit around a pedestal sink or a pipe protruding from the wall from a wall-mounted sink.
If the RAGRUND shelves don’t fit your style or suit your bathroom, try a rolling organizer such as the Rolling Organizer For Pedestal Sink by Bed Bath & Beyond.
4. Pick up a narrow cabinet
If you have a tight bathroom, get a cabinet to fit your needs by choosing a narrow cabinet. While it may look like it will not store a lot, narrow cabinets can fit more than you’d initially imagine. Tuck your narrow cabinet in beside your toilet or up against a wall where you have space.
5. Add some baskets
Adding wooden or plastic bathrooms is a simple but great way for small bathrooms to have more storage. Hang your wooden or wicker basket on a wall to create more space on the floor. Another advantage of wooden baskets is that they tend to work in bathrooms of any colour.
Just be careful to avoid adding too many baskets. Too many can allow for unwanted clutter.
6. Include a pedestal sink cabinet
If you don’t want to use under sink shelving for your pedestal sink storage, but you still want to make use of that space, go for a pedestal sink cabinet to organize and hold your toiletries and things. Simply place the cabinet under or near your pedestal sink and begin solving any and all clutter issues in your small bathroom.
7. Put up a curtain
Curtains can be used for more than just windows, and they even have their place in a bathroom. Use a curtain to create some charming storage space under your pedestal sink. To do this, first, choose a curtain that will match your bathroom colours and your bathroom theme. Don’t just limit yourself to decorator fabric. A ready made shower curtain will also do the trick.
After you’ve chosen your material, follow the steps below:
1. Measure your sink
First, use measuring tape to measure the sink vertically and horizontally. Then, take the horizontal measurement you’ve found, and double it. Also, add two inches for hemming to the vertical measurement.
2. Cut the fabric
Measure and cut the fabric to meet the dimensions that you previously found for the sink.
3. Hem the bottom
Stitch the top and bottom edges of the fabric to hem it. If you’re not the best sewer and your stitching isn’t straight, that’s alright. You can hide the hand-sewn hemmed side under the sink.
4. Create the gathering of the curtain
On the top of the curtain, you’ll need to create the gathering. Bumblebee Linens recommends hand stitching stitches running along the top hem and using a long piece of thread. “Once you have stitched through the entire top of the curtain, pull the thread to create a gathering,” Bumblebee Linens says. Lastly for this step, use a sewing machine to sew along the top of the gathering to keep it in place.
5. Add Velcro
Using industrial/home decorator Velcro cut to size, stick one side onto the top hem of the sink skirt. Stick the other side of the Velcro on the bottom of the sink.
6. Hang your sink curtain
Once all Velcro is in place, you can hang your sink curtain by matching the Velcro strips together.
What else do you need for to make your bathroom complete? Once you’ve nailed down some pedestal sink storage, head to a Kitchen & Bath Classics showroom for low-flow faucets and low-flow showerheads, low-flush toilets, and more kitchen and bath necessities.
If you’re not sure what you need for your bathroom or kitchen yet, stop by and chat with one of our consultations for some assistance and inspiration!
Pedestal sinks installed with the plumbing visible can look just fine, but it’s also possible for an installation to almost completely hide the plumbing. Hiding the plumbing will most likely require moving the existing water and drain lines.
Furthermore, how do you install AP trap on a pedestal sink? How to Install the P-Trap under a Sink
- Slide the short side of the P-trap onto the tailpiece that drops down from the sink drain.
- Take the lower part of the P-trap apart and insert the trap arm into the wall drain fitting as far as it will go.
- Pull the trap arm out of the wall fitting until it lines up with the top U-shaped portion of the trap.
In this regard, how does a pedestal sink work?
Assemble the sink on top of the pedestal and hold against the wall to mark for the position of the mounting bracket. Anchor the bracket by driving screws into the 2×8 inside the wall. Check that the bracket is level as you attach it.
Are pedestal sinks out of style?
Pedestal sinks are better suited to some types of bathrooms over others. For starters, pedestal sinks work perfectly in any bathroom where space is limited, including half baths and powder rooms. Many new pedestal sinks are modeled after traditional styles, offering an authentically vintage look in a new unit.
John Keeble / Getty Images
- Total Time: 2 hrs
- Skill Level: Intermediate
- Estimated Cost: $150 to $400
If you’re interested in a bathroom sink that’s economical, simple to assemble, and best of all, a space-saver, a pedestal sink might be right for you. Pedestal sinks are ideal for small bathrooms, half-baths, and powder rooms. They’re easy to install, too. Once you unbox the sink, you should have it installed and working in less than two hours.
Basics of Pedestal Sinks
Pedestal sinks are made of two major parts: the sink basin and the pedestal. The upper sink basin rests on top of the vertical pedestal. This pedestal usually is three-sided and hollow. This hollow space helps to hide the P-trap drainage pipes.
The pedestal sink’s basin appears to rest on top of the pedestal. Actually, a metal anchor strip attached to the wall with sturdy lag bolts provides most of the support. The back of the basin hooks over this hidden anchor.
Pedestal sinks help provide more space in cramped bathrooms than do vanity cabinets. Though they do offer storage space, vanity cabinets are large and bulky. Pedestal sinks have no storage.
Pedestal sinks can be top-heavy if not installed correctly. Because the porcelain basins are so heavy, they can injure you if they fall. Make sure that the basin securely connects with the back wall. Do not overtighten the bolts as this may break or chip the basin or pedestal.
Novice DIYers may prefer to have a professional install their pedestal sink to save on time and minimize the risk of errors during installation.
What You’ll Need
Equipment / Tools
- Utility knife
- Cordless drill
- Wrench set
- Pedestal sink
- Braided water supply lines
Turn Off the Water
Shut off your old sink’s water supply. You may find an intermediary water shut-off, such as a lever or a knob, located near the sink. Or you may need to locate the home’s main water shut-off. Turn on the sink to release any pressure or water left in the water lines.
Disconnect the Water Lines and Drainage
If you currently have a vanity-sink combination, open the door and put the bucket under the sink’s drainpipe. By hand (or with pliers, if needed), loosen the connections on the water supply lines. After they are loose, let them drain into the bucket.
Loosen the P-trap drainpipe and disconnect it from the sink. Keep all of the materials together. If the materials are cracked, purchase a new P-trap.
Remove the Vanity and Sink
Use the utility knife to cut the caulk away from the counter, connecting the counter to the backsplash or wall. Under the sink, look for any screws that secure the vanity to the bathroom wall and unscrew them. Make sure that all plumbing lines are disconnected. Then, with an assistant, move the vanity cabinet from the wall and out of the bathroom.
In most cases, you will need to fix the bathroom wall and flooring before installing the pedestal sink. You’ll likely need to patch holes in the drywall and repaint the wall. If you need to supply additional wall support, do that first before repairing and painting the wall. Bathroom flooring may need to be installed in the spot formerly occupied by the vanity cabinet.
Install Additional Wall Support
Depending on your type of pedestal sink, you may need to add more support within the wall to help hold the basin to the wall. If so:
- Using the manufacturer’s instructions, mark the intended height of the basin on the wall.
- Cut out the drywall in the marked area to reveal the wall studs.
- Cut a piece of two-by-four to fit horizontally between two of the studs.
- Fit the two-by-four into place. The fit should be tight, but not tight enough to bow out the studs.
- Nail the two-by-four into the studs from the sides, two nails per side.
Center and Mark the Pedestal Sink
Locate the center of the sink and mark it on the floor. Dry-fit the basin onto the pedestal. Slide the two against the wall. Put the anchor in place, underneath the back of the basin. Mark the drill points on the wall with the pencil.
Secure the Basin Anchor
Move the pedestal and basin away, removing the basin from the pedestal to avoid it falling off since it is unsecured. Pre-drill holes in the wall for the anchor. The holes should be slightly smaller than the lag bolts. Place the anchor over the holes. Tighten the anchor to the wall with the lag bolts provided by the manufacturer. Do not overtighten the bolts.
Assemble the Sink
Slide the pedestal and basin against the wall. Hang the basin over the anchor, with the pedestal next slid underneath it. Attach as recommended by the manufacturer’s instructions.
Attach the faucet and drain to the sink. Attach the water supply lines and the P-trap. Turn on the water supply.