When a dryer drum stops turning, clothes come out wet even if the dryer still has heat. A thin belt transfers rotation from the motor to the drum. The belt doesn’t break often, but when it does, the drum no longer rotates during the drying cycle. Among the major manufacturers of clothes dryers is Whirlpool, which not only makes dryers under its own brand but also for brands such as Kenmore, Roper, KitchenAid and Maytag.
Turn off power to the dryer by unplugging the unit from its wall outlet. The plug is larger than typical because the dryer runs on 240 volts of electricity.
Remove the two screws that secure the lint trap frame to the top of the dryer. Be careful not to drop those screws into the lint trap slot, where they could end up in the fan blades. Slide out the lint trap.
Pry the top of the dryer housing with a screwdriver or putty knife. Insert the tool into the seam between the top and the front of the cabinet, about 2 inches in from each corner. Lift the top — which pivots at two simple hinges at the back — up and out of your way.
Remove the two hex head bolts at the top, front corners of the front cabinet panel using a nut driver. Lean the door outward, toward you. As you do, be ready to support the front of the drum, which rides along a rim on the front panel. You can temporarily prop the drum up with a plastic cup set underneath the drum.
Slip the old belt off. If it has snapped, just lift it off the drum. If it is still in one piece, cut it with a utility knife and remove it.
Install the new belt by slipping it around the drum. Pull the cup out of the way momentarily so you can place the belt around the center of the drum. The belt installs with the grooved side riding on the drum and the flat side pointed away from the drum.
Push the front cabinet panel back into place and secure it with the two hex head bolts if your dryer has a separate, lower access panel. Make sure the drum fits into the rim on the panel. Remove the lower access panel by prying it at the top using a screwdriver or putty knife. If it does not have a separate lower access panel, remove the front cabinet panel by lifting it off its lower hinges. Set the door aside.
Thread the belt beneath the tensioner pulley, and slip the looped end of the belt over the motor pulley. This should cause the tensioner to swing into position upward and to the right. Remove the plastic cup if it is still in place.
Reassemble the dryer cabinet. Put the lower access panel back and pop it into place, or reattach the front cabinet panel and secure it with the two hex head screws.
Swing the top back down and push down on it to secure the locking tabs. Plug the dryer in and dry a load of clothes.
The plug on a electric dryer is optional, because, in many houses, the appliance is hardwired into the house circuitry. If your house has a 240-volt receptacle for the dryer, then you may need to install a plug — or pigtail — yourself. The National Electric Code has mandated grounded plugs on dryers since 1996, so contemporary pigtails have four wires instead of three. Installing a pigtail sounds like a complicated project, but it’s actually a simple operation that anyone can do. The pigtail wires have ring lugs, and you simply attach these to the appropriate terminals in the dryer.
Locate the electrical terminal panel on the back of the dryer. It’s usually near the floor. Unscrew the panel cover with a Philips screwdriver and remove it.
Note the colors of the terminal screws inside the dryer. Two are brass, one is silver and one is green. The brass terminals are hot, the silver is neutral and the green one is for ground.
Unscrew one of the brass screws and insert it through the ring lug on either the black or red wire on the pigtail. These two wires are both hot and are interchangeable. Drive the screw back into the panel and tighten it to hold the wire securely. Connect the other hot wire to the other terminal in the same way.
Connect the white wire to the silver terminal and the green wire to the green terminal. Once the wires are connected, secure the pigtail to the dryer by feeding it through the built-in wire clamp and tightening the clamp.
Fit the panel cover back onto the machine. The wire must be routed through the notch provided for that purpose. Screw the cover back on.
- Ask the Electrician: Wiring a Dryer Power Cord
- Acme How To: How to Replace a Dryer Power Cord
- Not all dryers come with pigtails. If you have to purchase one, make sure it’s long enough to reach the receptacle.
- If you have an older dryer without a ground terminal, drill a hole in the body of the machine and connect the ground wire to the machine with a ground screw.
- You hardwire a dryer by following essentially the same procedure. The only differences are that you have to crimp on the ring lugs yourself, and the ground wire is bare instead of green. Be sure the power is off before you do it.
Chris Deziel has a bachelor's degree in physics and a master's degree in humanities. Besides having an abiding interest in popular science, Deziel has been active in the building and home design trades since 1975. As a landscape builder, he helped establish two gardening companies.
Electric clothes dryers are usually sold without power cords attached, and as annoying as that may be, there’s a good reason for this omission. In 1996, the National Electrical Code (NEC) changed the requirements for electric dryer wiring and cord connections. The old cords had three-prong plugs that fit three-slot wall outlets. In three-prong cords, there were two hot wires, with the third wire serving as both the neutral and the ground connection. To make this work, the dryer was configured so that the chassis’ ground connection was “jumpered” to the neutral connection by means of a small metal strap in the connection box.
All this changed with the 1996 code revision, where new installations required that dryer outlets must be wired to accept four-prong cords, with separate neutral and ground wires. This also required a slightly different configuration in the dryer's connection box, in which the neutral and ground terminals were no longer jumpered together. This configuration slightly improves the protection against shock, since the machine's chassis now has its own grounding pathway.
The NEC (and most local building codes) still permit the use of three-prong dryer cords in houses that have the old style of dryer outlet. And since your dryer might be older or newer than your outlet, dryer manufacturers don’t bother giving you an appliance cord because it might not work for your situation. That’s why the cords are sold separately.
This project shows you how to install a new four-prong dryer cord for use with a four-slot outlet, which has been the standard for more than 20 years. Alternatively, if your house has an old three-slot dryer outlet, you can install a three-prong dryer cord on your new dryer to make it compatible with a three-slot dryer outlet.
If you have an error code coming up on your 6 th sense Whirlpool, Bauknecht or Laden Tumble Dryer there is a fault with the appliance, you will need to find out what the problem is. In this tutorial i will show you how to test the motor and show you how a quick way to see if the capacitor is not working.
6th sense Tumble Dryer Whirlpool, Bauknecht, Laden & Maytag.
Take the 6th sense tumble dryer lid of and check that the belt is firmly on the drum (if not see our other video on this)
The first think you will need to do on any of these tests is make sure the error code is cleared first.
Now turn the tumble dryer on to a cold air cycle and press start. You will hear a low humming noise with no drum action and the appliance might show an error fault after a minute or so. (On condenser tumble dryers you might also hear the pump unit running this is normal) the humming noise that you hear is the motor trying to start but as the capacitor is not working it cannot give the motor the initial shunt it needs to start turning.
Now to test manually that the motor capacitor is not working, run this test again but this time when you first here the humming noise try pushing the drum in a clockwise rotation, if the drum starts turning correctly then this is a good sign that it has failed. You will now need to strip the appliance down and check the capacitor; you will need a multi-meter that is capable to test capacitors.
Tumble Dryer capacitor can be dangerous. It can hold an electrical charge indefinitely even when not connected to a power source. Never touch the terminals of a capacitor until you have discharged it. Never assume a capacitor has already been discharged (Even the New Ones!). Because of the capacitors ability to store energy, it is dangerous even when disconnected from a power source. In order to handle it safely, it must first be discharged.
Most parts on a Whirlpool dryer are accessed through the top and front panels of the dryer. However when the rear drum bulkhead needs repair the appliance owner will need to know how to remove the back panel on a Whirlpool dryer to access it.
This will require that the cord and exhaust system be disconnected from the dryer. Once this is accomplished the back panel can be removed for access to the rear drum bulkhead.
Things You Will Need
- Phillips head screwdriver
- Putty knife
Disconnect the power cord of the Whirlpool dryer from the dryer electrical outlet. Pull the dryer away from the wall so that you have room to work behind it.
Use a Phillips head screwdriver to remove the three screws located at the top of the control console.
Locate the access panel for the power cord on the right rear of the dryer. Use a Phillips head screwdriver to remove the screws that secure the access panel and remove the access panel door from the back panel.
Use a Phillips head screwdriver to loosen the terminals on the terminal block for the power cord. Loosen the cord clamp that holds the power cord into place on the back panel. Remove the wires from the terminal block and pull the power cord out of the back panel.
Use the Phillips head screwdriver to loosen the clamp that secures the dryer duct to the Whirlpool dryer exhaust. Pull the dryer duct away from the dryer exhaust and out of your way.
Use a nut driver to remove the hex head screws that secure the back panel to the Whirlpool dryer. Start at the upper right hand corner and work your way around in a clockwise rotation.
Insert the blade of a putty knife between the rear panel and the dryer to create a starting point to pull the back panel off of the dryer. Carefully pull the back panel off of the dryer without bending it and set it out of your way.
- Whirlpool Service Manual
- Whirlpool Dryer Disassembly
Kenneth Crawford is a freelance writer with more than 10 years of experience. His work has appeared in both print and online publications, including "The American Chronicle." Crawford holds an associate degree in business administration from Commonwealth College.
To repair the F23 error on Whirlpool Duet dryer models you will first want to check the wiring at the thermistor for any loose connections or damaged wiring. If the wiring is good then you will most likely need to buy and replace the exhaust thermistor. Before replacing the thermistor reset the main electronic control board by unplugging the dryer for a minute and plugging it back it. If after 60 seconds the F23 error flashes in the display you will want to go ahead with the repair.
The thermistor is on the blower wheel housing close to the thermal fuse so you will need to remove the lower access panel on the front bottom of the dryer. Once you have the access panel off you then need to remove the lint filter duct housing. Now you have access to the exhaust thermistor, look on the blower wheel housing at the top, you will see two components mounted there. The left one is the thermal fuse and the one on the right is the thermistor. Unplug the wires from the thermistor and remove the screws mounting it to the housing and pull it out. Now install the new thermistor and reassemble the dryer.
If you would rather watch the repair on video the one on the right will walk you through the repair process. The model dryer being repaired in the video may not be your exact dryer but if it's a Duet Style Dryer then the instructions will also apply to your dryer as well.
Whirlpool front-loading dryers use a door-activated shutoff switch. When the door is closed, it pushes on the switch and enables the dryer to function. When the door is open, the switch breaks the electrical circuit and the dryer cannot run. Over time, the switch may burn out or break and must be replaced. The switch is relatively cheap and can be replaced with a few simple tools.
Unplug the dryer from the wall socket.
Remove the lint trap filter, then remove the two screws, using a Phillips screwdriver. Alternatively, some models have a cover over the lint trap filter. Lift the cover to expose the screws, then remove them.
Insert a putty knife into the seam along the front edge of the dryer between the dryer top and the dryer cabinet (the main body), about two inches from each edge. Push inward to release the locking tabs. Pry up the dryer top and lift it out of the way.
Open the dryer door and remove the two screws in the upper-right corner of the door pocket, using a Phillips screwdriver. Push the switch lever — called an actuator — upward through the hole.
Squeeze the switch wiring mounting tab, using a pair of pliers. Push the tab downward out of its hole, using a screwdriver.
Disconnect the switch’s wiring connector from the dryer’s wiring. You may need to insert a flathead screwdriver under the connector’s locking tab and pry upward to pull the connection apart.
Feed the new switch’s actuator lever through the hole and reinstall the two Phillips screws. Push the wiring locking tab through its hole in the dryer cabinet, then connect the wiring connector.
Lower the dryer top and push down firmly along the front edge to snap the locking tabs into place. Reinstall the Phillips screws near the lint trap. Plug the dryer in and test it for function. The dryer should run while the door is closed, yet stop when you open the door.
The Whirlpool brand, a leader in laundry appliance sales in the United States, includes several popular lines of washers and dryers like Duet and Cabrio. As with any laundry appliance that is used almost daily, there can be problems and a need for repairs.
When your Cabrio dryer stops working, Whirlpool offers troubleshooting tips online along with other product information. Or, you can call a technician or try your hand at repairing it yourself. Clothes dryers are simple machines and most problems are easy to diagnose and can be repaired with just a few tools and some easy instructions.
Remove Stains from Cabrio Dryer Drum
Stains on the dryer drum can come from clothes that have bled dye or something left in a pocket like a crayon that melts or a pen that leaks ink. These spots are not only unsightly, but they can also leave stains on fabrics so it’s important to get rid of them as soon as possible.
Be Sure the Dryer is Cold
Always start with an empty and cold dryer. Removing warm wax or ink will only cause it to smear larger. A cold dryer will also help any cleaning fumes from being too intense.
Scrub Away the Residue
A bit of elbow grease and a Mr. Clean Magic Eraser will usually take care of removing the melted wax. Dampen the eraser and use it to clean each area of the drum. You'll need to rinse it out frequently in clear water and just keep moving around the drum. When all the stains are gone, wipe down the interior with a soft white cloth dipped in clear water.
Remove Dye Traces
You can use chlorine bleach to remove any traces of dye that remain but you must be careful. Mix one cup of bleach per gallon of water. Wearing protective gloves, wipe down the interior of the drum with a soft sponge dipped in the bleach solution. When the stains are gone, the entire drum must be rinsed by wiping it down with a cloth dipped in clear water. Then dry a load of wet old rags or white towels to be sure that all of the bleach is gone before drying colored fabrics.
Cabrio Dryer Displays AF Code and Takes Too Long to Dry Clothes
The AF code appears when the dryer is started, clothes are taking too long to dry, and there is excessive lint inside the dryer drum.
The AF code (Air Flow) on a Cabrio Dryer is signaling that the machine does not have proper airflow. Dryers need to be able to pull in fresh air and expel humidity to be able to dry fabrics. The excessive lint inside the drum shows that the lint is not being drawn into your dryer filter because of the poor circulation of air.
Unobstructed airflow is not only essential to remove the excess moisture in clothes; it is also important because blocked vents can cause dryer fires.
Clean Out the Dryer Vent System
Clean out the vent between the dryer and the wall, as well as, the ductwork to the outside exhaust vent.
Replace Older Dryer Vent Components
If you have an older, accordion-style soft dryer vent hose, consider replacing it with a rigid dryer vent system. It is worth the time and cost for your family's safety and your utility costs..
Cabrio Start/Pause Button Not Working Correctly
The Start/Pause sensor button on the display panel does not work correctly.
Before calling a repair technician or starting a repair on any electrical component, run a diagnostic test to help determine the real issue.
Run a Diagnostic Test
Place the dryer is in Standby mode (plugged-in with all indicators off). Select any three buttons (except POWER) and follow the steps below, using the same buttons. Remember the buttons and the order that the buttons were pressed. Within eight seconds:
- Press and Release the first selected button
- Press and Release the second selected button
- Press and Release the third selected button
- Repeat this three-button sequence two more times
If the key sequence was entered successfully, all indicators on the console are illuminated for five seconds with "88" showing in the estimated time remaining display. If there are no saved fault codes, all indicators on the console will momentarily turn off, and then only the seven segment display will come back on and display "88".
Decipher the Fault Codes
You can then use the fault code(s) shown to determine what is wrong by looking it up in the user or repair manual.
Unfortunately, if one electrical component goes bad, the entire motherboard may need to be replaced.