How to eat honeysuckle

Twining, scented woodland stunner. This trumpet-like flower is a paradise for wildlife, with its sweet, heady fragrance calling to nearby species, particularly on warm summer evenings.

Honeysuckle grows in woodland and along hedgerows.

Credit: Colin Varndell /

Honeysuckle twines itself around branches, making them become twisted.

Credit: Laurie Campbell / WTML

It produces clusters of red berries in autumn.

Credit: Rosanna Ballentine / WTML

Honeysuckle has a very strong, sweet smell.

It is hugely valuable to a wide range of wildlife.

Credit: FLPA / Alamy Stock Photo

Its leaves are deep green and oval.

Credit: Mike Read / Alamy Stock Photo

Common names: honeysuckle, woodbine

Scientific name: Lonicera periclymenum

Family: Caprifoliaceae

Origin: native

Flowering season: June to September

Habitat: woodland and hedgerows

What does honeysuckle look like?

Leaves: deep green and oval with no or very short stalks. Leaves are arranged in pairs opposite each other.

Flowers: cream, trumpet-like flowers which turn yellow-orange, often with a red or pink flush.

Fruit: clusters of red berries which ripen in autumn.

Not to be confused with: the many different species of honeysuckle. Some have been introduced to Britain and have now become naturalised, whereas others are garden escapees and can be invasive.

How to eat honeysuckle

Where to find honeysuckle

Honeysuckle grows in woodland and along hedgerows, weaving through shrubs and trees. It is common and widespread throughout the British Isles.

Value to wildlife

Honeysuckle is hugely valuable to wildlife, supporting several species, many of which are rare. Butterflies, such as the white admiral (which is in decline), rely specifically on honeysuckle, and it is also prized by bumblebees.

Pollinating moths are attracted to the sweet scent of honeysuckle at night, when it is strongest; and birds, including thrushes, warblers and bullfinches, eat the berries when they ripen in late summer and autumn. Dormice also rely on honeysuckle for both shelter and food. They use honeysuckle bark to build nests for their summer young, but also eat the sweet, nectar-rich flowers as a source of energy.

Japanese honeysuckle (Lonicera japonica) is a perennial semi-evergreen vine native to Japan. First introduced in 1806 as an ornamental ground cover, it slowly escaped cultivation and became widely established by the early 1900s. It is found in numerous areas across Missouri.

Japanese honeysuckle spreads along the ground, forming dense mats. It climbs shrubs and trees and often dominates tree canopies. Fragrant white flowers bloom from May through June and develop into purplish-black fruits. Birds eat the fruits and distribute the seeds into fields and other areas. New vines also develop from underground rhizomes, and vegetative runners can sprout where the nodes (stem and leaf junctions) contact the soil.

Effect on Natural Communities

This aggressive vine seriously alters or destroys the understory and herbaceous layers of the communities it invades, including prairies, barrens, glades, flatwoods, savannas, floodplains, and upland forests. It may become established in forested natural areas when openings are created from treefalls or when natural features allow a greater light intensity in the understory. Japanese honeysuckle also may alter understory bird populations in forest communities.

How to eat honeysuckle

Efforts to control Japanese honeysuckle infestations have included the following methods: mowing, grazing, prescribed burning and herbicides. While grazing and mowing reduce the spread of vegetative stems, prescribed burns or a combination of prescribed burns and herbicide spraying appears to be the best way to eradicate this vine.

Prescribed Burning

In fire-adapted communities, spring prescribed burns greatly reduced Japanese honeysuckle coverage and crown volume. Repeated fires reduced honeysuckle by as much as 50 percent over a single burn.

A previously burned population of honeysuckle will recover after several years if fire is excluded during this time. By reducing honeysuckle coverage with fire, refined herbicide treatments may be applied, if considered necessary, using less chemical.

Herbicide Treatment

Because Japanese honeysuckle is semi-evergreen, it will continue to photosynthesize after surrounding deciduous vegetation is dormant. This condition allows managers to detect the amount of infestation, and allows for treatment of the infestation with herbicides without damage to the dormant vegetation.


Glyphosate herbicide (tradename Roundup) is the recommended treatment for this honeysuckle. A 1.5- to 2-percent solution (2 to 2.6 ounces of Roundup/gallon water) applied as a spray to the foliage will effectively eradicate Japanese honeysuckle. The herbicide should be applied after surrounding vegetation has become dormant in autumn but before a hard freeze (25 degrees F).

Roundup should be applied carefully by hand sprayer, and spray coverage should be uniform and complete. Do not spray so heavily that the herbicide drips off the target species. Retreatment may be necessary for plants that are missed because of dense growth.

Although glyphosate is effective when used during the growing season, use at this time is not recommended in natural communities because of the potential harm to non-target plants. Foliar application of herbicides will be less effective prior to early summer (July 4) because early season shoot elongation will limit the transfer of chemical to the root system. Glyphosate is non-selective, so care should be taken to avoid contacting non-target species. Non-target plants will be important in recolonizing the site after Japanese honeysuckle is controlled.


Crossbow, a formulation of triclopyr and 2,4-D, is also a very effective herbicide that controls Japanese honeysuckle. Crossbow should be mixed according to label instructions for foliar application and applied as a foliar spray. It may be applied at dormant periods, like glyphosate, and precautions given above for glyphosate should be followed when using Crossbow.

Either herbicide should be applied while backing away from the treated area to avoid walking through the wet herbicide. Garlon 3A and Garlon 4 (triclopyr) are also effective in foliar applications. By law, herbicides may only be applied according to label instructions and by licensed herbicide applicators or operators when working on public properties.

Cutting Vines

Mechanical cutting of aerial vines, followed by cut-surface herbicide treatment can be effective and minimizes the risk of spray drift. Undiluted Garlon 4 or a 20-percent solution of Roundup should be applied to cut stems immediately following cutting. (Note: some products containing glyphosate or another herbicide may be pre-diluted, so be sure to read product labels to understand herbicide concentration levels).

Maintenance Control

In fire-adapted communities, periodic spring burning should control this species.

How to eat honeysuckle

Deer are herbivores. This means that they only feed on food produced from plants and do not eat meat or other animals. Although they are herbivores, they are not picky in regards to what kind of plant they will eat. As the seasons change, so does a deer’s diet. Depending on the time of year, deer will eat a wide range of leaves, grass, nuts, fruit, flowers, twigs, fungi and farm crops.

The types of food that deer eat most often:

  1. Plants: clover, honeysuckle, dogwood, flower, dandelion and grass
  2. Farm Crops: peas, corn, potatoes, sweet potatoes, wheat, beans, soybeans, and rye
  3. Fruit: blackberries, grapes, apples and persimmons
  4. Nuts: acorns, hickory nuts and pecans
  5. Fungi: Mushrooms

What do deer love to eat the most?

How to eat honeysuckle

Deer are only able to eat their favorite foods during the late spring, summer and fall. Their favorite foods are often found on farms or in hard wooded areas.

The food that deer love the most is fruit. Deer love fruit because they enjoy the natural sugar flavor and it provides quick energy. A deer’s second favorite food is corn. Deer love to eat corn in the fall.

The 5 foods that deer love to eat the most:

  1. Fruit (apples and berries)
  2. Farm crops (corn, soybeans, and rye)
  3. Acorns
  4. Clovers
  5. Potatoes

How do deer find food?

Finding food in the spring, summer, and fall is much easier than during the winter. During the warmer months, deer usually bed down close to farm land, hard wooded areas that produce acorns, or river beds that produce lush vegetation. During the winter months deer spend most their day searching for food. Lucking deer bulk up and gain a significant amount of weight during the warmer months to prepare for the rut and harsh winter.

What is the best deer feed?

How to eat honeysuckle

Choosing the best deer feed often depends on the time of year. During the late summer and fall it is best to feed deer their favorite foods: acorns, corn and soybeans. This type of deer feed is best during this time of year because it is also naturally produced by trees and farm crops. A deer will be expecting this type of food and it is perfect for bulking season.

During the winter months deer are used to an entirely different diet. During the winter it is best to feed deer woody foods such as clover, saplings, peas, and honeysuckle.

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Bush honeysuckles are large, upright, spreading shrubs reaching up to 15–20 feet in height, with flowers that change from white to yellow; juicy red berries; and opposite, simple leaves that green up much earlier than surrounding native vegetation.

Leaves are deciduous, opposite, simple, 1–3 inches long, narrowly oval with a rounded or pointed tip, the margin entire (not toothed or lobed); upper surface green, lower surface pale green and slightly fuzzy. In late autumn, leaves typically remain green and attached well after the leaves of our native trees and shrubs have fallen.

Bark is grayish brown, tight, with broad ridges and grooves.

Twigs are grayish brown, thornless; the older branches are hollow.

Flowers May–June, fragrant, paired, growing from the leaf axils, tubular, 1 inch long, slender, distinctly 2-lipped, with upper lip having 4 narrow lobes, lower lip with 1 narrow lobe. Petals change from white or pink to yellowish as they age.

Fruits mature in September–October; typically red berries about ¼ inch across, 2–6 seeded, in pairs in the axils of the leaves.

To distinguish between the two invasive bush honeysuckles, note the following technical descriptions:

  • Amur (L. maackii): leaf blades are tapered at the tip. The stalk below the paired flowers is 2–5 mm long (sometimes to 8 mm) (less than ¼ inch). The fruits appear sessile (stalkless). It is larger, to 20 feet tall, with leaves 2–3 inches long.
  • Bella hybrids: leaf blades are rounded or broadly angled to a bluntly or sharply pointed tip, sometimes tapered abruptly to a minute, sharp point. The stalk below the paired flowers is 5–19 mm long (about ¼–¾ inch). The fruits appear noticeably stalked at maturity. These only reach 6–15 feet tall, with leaves 1–2½ inches long.

Similar species: Other native and nonnative honeysuckles that occur in Missouri are twining woody vines, not bushes.

Height: to 20 feet (Amur honeysuckle); 6–15 feet (bella honeysuckle).

How to eat honeysuckle

Statewide. Infestations begin primarily near urban areas, where they escape from cultivation, but bush honeysuckles quickly spread to natural habitats and may be found nearly anywhere.

Habitat and Conservation

Understory shrubs in forests and woodlands; also in fencerows, thickets, roadsides, pastures, old fields, and unattended areas. Asian bush honeysuckles invade quickly and outcompete native plants.

In spring, because they leaf out so early, bush honeysuckles steal light from native plants, such as spring wildflowers and a variety of germinating seeds, which need a sunny forest floor in spring in order to flower, fruit, and gather energy for the next year. They also compete for soil moisture and nutrients. they may produce a chemical that inhibits the growth of native plants.

Then, in fall, bush honeysuckles remain green after other woody species have lost their leaves. This gives the bush honeysuckles extra strength and nutrition, which is another competitive advantage.

Birds and small animals eat the berries and deposit the seeds elsewhere, spreading these invasive weeds. When stems or branches are cut off, the plant resprouts with more branches, leaves, flowers, and fruits. Bush honeysuckles also spread from the roots, suckering to create new bushes nearby to further dominate an area.

Learn to identify these aggressive invaders, and then kill them before they spread more seeds elsewhere.

More information about the two types of bush honeysuckles in Missouri:

  • The type called “bella” is an artificially derived hybrid between two Eurasian species, L. tatarica and L. morrowii, and represents a variable group of fertile hybrids. The various hybrids included within the “x bella” designation are difficult to distinguish from each other, requiring close examination of flower anatomy. Bella hybrids are more tolerant of moisture, so they may prefer habitats such as bogs, fens, lakeshores, and streamside areas.
  • Amur honeysuckle (L. maackii) is a native of eastern Asia introduced widely for erosion control, as a hedge or screen, and for ornamental purposes through the mid-1980s, when its invasive potential was first realized. It had largely replaced other types of bush honeysuckles in the horticultural industry. Now it covers large areas in metropolitan areas, bottomlands, forests and woodlands, land along streams, in fencerows, gardens, railroads, roadsides, and shaded, disturbed areas. It is aggressively invasive in most midwestern states and has become the dominant species in the understory of many remnant wooded areas in and around cities. It has used rivers and highways as dispersal corridors to invade rural parts of the state.


Invasive. Originally from Eurasia; introduced for landscaping, wildlife cover, and erosion control.

Bush honeysuckles are probably the most aggressive exotic plants that have escaped and naturalized in urban areas, where the woodland understory is often a solid layer of green from these shrubs.

Bush honeysuckles tolerate many habitats and can become established nearly anywhere that birds can go.

Prescribed burning, hand pulling of seedlings, cutting and applying herbicide to the stumps, and other herbicide treatments are all employed to try to control this tough, weedy plant. See the link to “Control” below.

How to eat honeysuckle

What qualifies as a weed depends on your perspective. To some people, any uninvited plant that takes root in their yard is a nuisance that should be weeded out and tossed in the compost pile. Others look at wild flora growing near their home and see dinner.

Contrary to their reputation as worthless invaders, many common weeds are perfectly edible. In addition to being tasty and nutritious, plants like purslane, dandelion, and chickweed are free if you know how to identify them. Whenever harvesting weeds for consumption, make sure to stick to areas where you know the soil is healthy (like your home garden, for example) and avoid potentially polluted spots like sidewalks and parking lots. And never eat a plant unless you’re sure of what it is, as poisonous weeds often grow in the same places as the edible kind. Once you have the safety concerns covered, all you have to worry about is how to prepare these wild delicacies.

1. Dandelion

Of all the edible weeds on this list, this one may be the most likely to appear on restaurant menus. Though the leaves on a flowering dandelion can be bitter, they’re tangy and more palatable if harvested while the plant is still young. Dandelion greens are commonly chopped up and sprinkled into salads, but you can also eat the roots and yellow petals. When boiled and fermented, the flowers can be used to make wine.

2. Lamb’s Quarters

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Lamb’s quarters can be identified by the toothed, blueish-green leaves growing from their stalks, which reach up to 6 feet tall. As a close relative of quinoa, the green is high in iron, protein, calcium, and B vitamins. Its nutty, bitter flavor makes it a perfect substitute for spinach.

3. Purslane

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Also called pigweed, fatweed, and little hogweed, purslane is delicious and nutritious. The plant is rich in vitamin A, vitamin C, and omega-3 fatty acids, with thick, succulent-like leaves that are described as a cross between spinach and okra. The unique flavor and texture are welcome additions to an otherwise ordinary salad.

4. Bittercress

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When your backyard garden is out of commission for the winter, go foraging for this cold-weather weed. Closely related to mustard greens, the teardrop leaves of this peppery plant can be added to salads or chopped into condiments. Look for it growing in the North Atlantic, Western, and Southern states.

5. Chickweed

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Instead of plucking the tiny leaves off this plant, you’ll want to harvest the full stem to add to your salads. The leaves are tender like baby spinach with a taste similar to parsley and corn silk. They grow in thick, sprawling patches, so you should have no trouble harvesting enough for a whole meal in one outing.

6. Stinging Nettle

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This edible weed requires a bit of prep work before it’s ready for your dinner table. To remove the stinging hairs (which pack the same toxins as fire ants), blanch the toothed leaves in salted water and follow that up with a dip in an ice bath. Once that’s done, stinging nettles are fit to add to soup, pasta, or any cooked dish that calls for spinach.

7. Wild Violet

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On top of being pretty, the flowers and leaves of the wild violet are totally safe to eat. Try tossing them into salads, or use the purple petals as a colorful garnish in desserts.

8. Japanese Honeysuckle

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Many foragers got their start sucking the sweet nectar out of honeysuckle blossoms as children. For a more mature way to consume this invasive weed, try fermenting the flowers with sugar, water, and lemon juice in a glass jar. After several days, you’ll have a bubbly, sweet beverage. Just remember to stick to the flowers when foraging, as honeysuckle berries are poisonous.

9. Sheep sorrel

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French sorrel is a delicacy, and you can find its humble cousin growing in the wild. Like the domestic version of the plant, sheep sorrel leaves are prized for their lemony flavor. The weeds are slightly bitter tasting, and they should be used with other greens as an ingredient in salads.

10. Wild Garlic

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Patches of long, blade-like leaves are often connected to wild garlic bulbs growing underground. The bulbs can be chopped up and used in place of regular garlic, while the leaves make a great ingredient in pesto. Just make sure to use your nose while foraging for them. Wild garlic is sometimes mistaken for the highly toxic lily of the valley, and the pungent, garlicky smell is what sets it apart.

11. Thistle

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Thistle’s spiny leaves make it difficult to harvest in the wild, but brave foragers will be rewarded. When stripped of their leaves, thistle’s celery-like stems can be chopped up and used in soups, salads, and stir-fries.

• Welcome to "grow, cook, eat, arrange", the brand new podcast by gardeners Sarah Raven and Arthur Parkinson, who've worked together for nearly ten years at the beautiful Perch Hill Farm in the South of England. 

• Sarah loves gardening in general but growing produce both food and flowers is the part she loves the most. She also loves to cook straight forward garden-picked food every day with the minimal amount of ingredients and palaver but the greatest amount of taste!

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Robins are familiar feathered visitors, but even though they are one of the most common backyard birds, they don’t often visit bird feeders. So what do robins eat, and how can birders provide nutritious and attractive foods for robins?

Natural Foods for Robins

American robins are widespread thrushes, closely related to bluebirds, hermit thrushes, wood thrushes, and Townsend’s solitaires. Like most other thrushes, robins are omnivorous and have a wide-ranging, opportunistic diet that changes with the seasons, habitat, and general availability of different food sources. A robin’s typical diet consists of 40 percent insects and 60 percent fruits, with popular foods such as:

  • Earthworms, insect larvae, grubs, caterpillars, and snails
  • Spiders, beetles, grasshoppers, termites, crickets, and other insects
  • Berries such as blueberries, mulberries, winterberries, juniper, honeysuckle, and holly
  • Small tree fruits including cherries, crabapples, chokecherries, dogwood, and hawthorn
  • Vine fruits such as wild and domesticated grapes

In addition to these foods, American robins have also been recorded as eating eggs, small snakes, frogs, skinks, and small fish, depending on where they are foraging and what they can catch.

In spring and early summer, robins eat more mollusks and insects to provide adequate calcium for egg formation and protein for feeding hungry hatchlings. In late summer and fall, berries and fruits are more abundant. In winter, robins will eat whatever foods they can find, which often includes leftover fruits and berries still hanging on plants, or else the birds will migrate to where food sources are more readily available.

The time of day when a robin eats has also been noted as affecting the bird’s diet. Earlier in the day when the ground is still wet, these birds find more worms and grubs. Later in the day, robins eat more berries and fruits.

What to Feed Robins in the Yard

Because American robins don’t eat many foods that are common in feeders, providing natural food sources is the best way to attract these birds with tasty treats. In addition to basic bird-friendly landscaping, consider options such as:

  • Use berry-producing juniper hedges for a fence or privacy barrier
  • Plant crabapple or cherry trees for their beautiful spring blossoms and abundant fruit
  • Add a grapevine along a fence to cover the structure and provide a food source
  • Use bird-friendly mulch or leave leaf litter intact for foraging robins
  • Plant holly bushes in landscaping beds or underneath trees
  • Reduce insecticide use to encourage birds to naturally control pests
  • Water the lawn in the early morning to bring earthworms to the surface
  • Keep grass mowed shorter to allow robins to forage more easily

These few steps can provide a bountiful natural feast for robins, but with the right foods, they will also visit feeders. Provide chunks of fruit, such as apples and pears, as well as softened raisins or cranberries for the birds to sample. Suet chunks, nuggets, or shreds can also tempt American robins, and they will sample peanut hearts, hulled sunflower seed, mealworms, and jelly.

Use broad, open tray, platform, or dish feeders to accommodate robins at feeding stations. Because these are larger birds, they are more comfortable at larger feeders, and because they may travel in flocks, it is best to have plenty of space for robins to visit. Ideally, feeders should be placed on or near the ground, as these birds are more comfortable foraging on the ground. For a fun option, try a bird feeder garland on trees or shrubs where robins are used to feeding, and they will happily enjoy the decorative treat.

What American Robins Won’t Eat

While there are many things robins will sample in the yard, it is equally important to note what foods they won’t eat. American robins do not eat many seeds, and won’t regularly visit feeders offering Nyjer seed, hummingbird nectar, mixed birdseed, cracked corn, safflower seed, or whole peanuts. They may initially try these foods, but aren’t likely to return and be frequent guests if other foods are available. Of course, birders who offer a wide range of foods can supply not only robins’ favorite options, but also foods to attract many other birds as well.

A Note About the European Robin

While the American robin is one of the most popular and familiar birds in North America, it must be noted that the European robin is also one of the most popular and familiar birds throughout Europe. While the European robin is not a thrush and is not closely related to the American robin, it does share similar dietary preferences. The same types of natural foods, including worms, insects, fruit, and berries, will be just as attractive to European robins as they are to American robins. It is best, however, to choose plant varieties that are native to each birds’ range to attract and feed different robins.

Robins eat a wide variety of foods, and birders who are aware of these birds’ broad diets can more easily offer many different foods in their yard to attract and nurture robins all year long.

How to eat honeysuckle

How to eat honeysuckle


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Imagine having your entire Thanksgiving Day dinner prepared, with all of the sides and desserts included, just to find out that you didn’t make enough turkey for the whole table to nosh on. To avoid such a nightmare, we called on Claudia Sidoti, principal chef at HelloFresh, to lend insight on how you can easily determine what size turkey to purchase based on the number of anticipated guests coming to your Thanksgiving feast.

And along with her tips, she even included a turkey recipe for you to test out on Thanksgiving Day, too. Now, here’s all you need to know about exactly what turkey size you should buy for your holiday table.

How much turkey should you buy if you’re hosting 10+ people? How about if you are feeding five or less?

“When it comes to figuring out how much turkey to buy, you should usually anticipate having plenty for seconds and leftovers,” Sidoti says. “For a turkey smaller than 16 pounds, usually estimate about 1 pound per serving. For a larger turkey, you can anticipate a little less.”

Now if you want to make sure you have plenty of leftovers, you should aim to have about 1.5 pounds of turkey per person.

In short, if you’re entertaining 10 people, you should opt for a 15-pound turkey, and for five guests and under, opt for a seven- to eight-pound bird. The chef adds that these weight measurements account for the bones inside, too.

When in doubt, follow the rule of thumb of 1.5 pounds of turkey per person at your table. Then, you’ll never get left with no leftovers or underserved guests.

RELATED: These are the easy, at-home recipes that help you lose weight.

A Thanksgiving turkey recipe

Here is Sidoti’s recipe, as well as detailed instructions for how to make Roast Turkey with a Garlic Herb Butter Rub.


14-16 lb pre-brined honeysuckle white turkey
1/2 lemon, 1 shallot
4 cloves garlic
2 sprigs thyme
2 oz garlic herb butter

What you’ll need: Baking sheet, paper towels, roasting pan, instant-read thermometer, aluminum foil, turkey lifters (optional), fat separator (optional), carving knife (optional), kosher salt, black pepper


  1. Line a baking sheet with paper towels. Using kitchen shears, remove and discard outer packaging from turkey; place turkey on prepared sheet.
  2. Remove and discard giblets and neck from inside the cavity. Do not rinse the turkey. Do not remove the oven-safe leg clamp (it’s needed to keep the legs together).
  3. Pat turkey very dry, including inside the cavity, with paper towels. (This ensures that the turkey skin will get nice and crispy when roasted.) Let stand at room temperature for 1 hour.
  1. Adjust racks to middle and bottom positions; preheat oven to 425 degrees. Wash and dry all produce. Halve and peel shallot. Peel four garlic cloves. Halve lemon, if you have not already done so.
  2. Once turkey has stood for 1 hour at room temperature, season all over, including inside the cavity, with plenty of salt and pepper.
  3. Place shallot, garlic cloves, one lemon half, and two thyme sprigs inside turkey cavity. Rub garlic herb butter all over outer side of turkey skin.
  1. Place seasoned turkey, breast side up, in a large roasting pan; tuck wing tips underneath the body. Roast on middle rack until cooked through, about 2 hours and 15 minutes total (follow our Game Plan to stay on track while the turkey roasts!).
  2. Turkey is fully cooked when internal temperature reaches 180 degrees in the thigh and 165 degrees in the breast. Check for doneness after 1 hour 45 minutes by inserting an instant-read thermometer into the thickest part of the thigh. If not yet cooked through, loosely tent turkey with aluminum foil and return to oven 15 to 30 minutes more.
  3. Remove from oven. Resist the urge to peek in on your bird—opening the oven will cause the temperature to drop, thus slowing down the cooking process. Instead, turn on the oven light and check on it through the glass!
  1. Let turkey rest in roasting pan for 15 minutes, then transfer to a cutting board to rest 15 minutes more. Carefully pour pan drippings into a fat separator or a large measuring cup. Set aside to cool.
  1. Carve turkey and serve with gravy and sides.

Any other way to make the turkey perfect?

Sidoti has a great way to elevate the presentation of your Thanksgiving turkey.

“Slice up a few pieces of citrus, gather some whole herbs, and arrange them around your bird right before serving,” says Sidoti. How elegant!

How to eat honeysuckle

An invasive plant can be defined as any plant that grows where you don’t want to and does it in a way that makes it hard to control. It doesn’t have to be a weed, and invasive plants are by no means always ugly specimens. A lot of it depends on the setting. For example, bittersweet vines in some settings can be quite beautiful and desirable, but if they take over your woodland garden, they are a nuisance indeed. And some plants begin as perfectly desirable landscape species that you plant deliberately, such as obedient plant (Physostegia), only to prove their invasive nature in a year or two when you discover their rampant growth characteristics.

Some invasive plants listed are quite attractive. Consider burning bush (Euonymus alatus) for example—an exotic (or “alien”) shrub from Asia. Few shrubs put on a better fall foliage display. Another fall star is the vine, sweet autumn clematis (Clematis terniflora). A summer standout is Scotch broom (Cytisus scoparius). But attractive invasive plants are like some of the good-looking people one meets (you know the type): Once you get past the exterior and learn more about them, you no longer want them to hang out. Looks, after all, can be deceiving.

Many invasive plants can be thought of as exotic specimens "gone wild"—as in "out of control." The following list of 16 invasive plants comprises an introductory collection, but it is by no means an exhaustive list.

Remember, too, that invasives tend to be defined regionally. Some species pose no problems at all in some areas, but they behave in true invasive style in other regions.

How to eat honeysuckle

Red berries are among the healthiest foods on the planet. High in anthocyanins, which are plant compounds that fight inflammation and cell damage, these tiny fruits are also low in calories and fat. But, don’t forget taste. Sweet, tart and flavorful, berries are delicious as a snack, in salads, on cereals, or for dessert. Include them in your daily diet for increased health.

When we think of red berries, we typically think of strawberries and raspberries, the most common red berries consumed in America. But don’t overlook round berries, such as currants and gooseberries. Many red berries grow wild throughout the country, but make sure you positively identify them since some red berries are toxic. Consult a field guide or take an expert with you to berry hunt in the wild.

Exploring Red Berries

Below are some of the most common red berries growing in the United States.

Bittersweet [Solanum dulcamara].

Toxic . Invasive throughout much of the Northeast, this vining plant is often used for decorative purposes. The bright purple flowers are followed by small, rounded fruit that ripen from green to orange to red.

Buffaloberry [Shepherdia argentea].

Found throughout the Rocky Mountains and the West, this shrub has sage colored leaves that resemble a Russian Olive. The red or orange fruits appear in the fall. They make excellent jam, but cause diarrhea if eaten raw.

Butcher’s Broom [Ruscus aculeatus].

Toxic . This small, shrubby plant has tough leaves with pointed tips. The berries are round and bright red.

Chokecherry [Prunus virginiana].

This plant isn’t really a berry, but a relative of the cherry. It is used to make sauces and jellies. Chokecherries grows wild throughout most of the United States on shrubs or even trees. Pick the berries when they’re deep red to almost purple. They have a bitter flavor, but taste delicious when processed into syrup. The leaves, seeds and bark are toxic.

Currant [Ribes rubrum]

Currants prefer cool temperatures and moist soils. The tart, juicy fruit is usually red although some varieties are white to pink. Currant juice makes excellent wines and jellies.

Elderberry [Sambucus nigra]

Elderberries are easy to grow and make lovely landscaping plants. The fruit are red, purple or black, depending on the species. They can cause indigestion if eaten raw, but make delicious syrups and wine. Researchers have found that elderberry syrup is effective for relieving cold and flu symptoms. Not all species produce edible fruit.

Gooseberry [Ribes grossularia]

Very tart translucent green fruits ripen to red. Some varieties remain green or are pink when ripe. Use gooseberries in pies and preserves.

Raspberries [Rubus].

Unbelievably expensive to buy at the grocery store, raspberries are simple to grow in a home garden. Choose a fall-bearing variety if you live in an area with harsh winters and spring frosts. Eat raspberries fresh, freeze them or make them into jam and syrup.

Rose hip [Rosa]

Many rose varieties, including wild roses, produce rose hips after blooms fade. The hips are seedy, with a slightly sweet, slightly bitter taste. They can be used in jams, syrups, wine and more, and are a good source of vitamin C.

Spindle [Euonymus europaeus].

Highly toxic . This low-lying shrub produces pinkish-red, lobed fruit. The fruit contain a bright orange seed and appears in the fall.

Strawberry [Fragaria].

How to eat honeysuckle

Besides being delicious, wild and cultivated strawberries are an excellent source of vitamin C. Strawberries need a bit more care than other berries, but homegrown strawberries taste infinitely better than those found in the stores. Even a small plot or container will yield several pints of juicy fruit.

Want to know more about edible and non-edible berries?

Visit the links below:

    from the University of Wyoming from Wild Food School

Did we miss any red berries? Leave a comment and let us know!

When she’s not writing about gardening, food and canning, Julie Christensen enjoys spending time in her gardens, which includes perennials, vegetables and fruit trees. She’s written hundreds of gardening articles for the Gardening Channel, Garden Guides and San Francisco Gate, as well as several e-books.

How to eat honeysuckle

This roasted turkey breast tenderloin is so easy to prepare and made super flavorful thanks to the brown sugar, apple cider vinegar, and herb marinade!

How to eat honeysuckle

This unsuspecting turkey tenderloin may very well be the best turkey I’ve ever had! It’s delicious enough to be the centerpiece for a smaller Thanksgiving but easy enough for a weeknight if you’re looking for a change from your typical protein. The quick marinade infuses it with tons of flavor and locks in the moisture, making for totally crave-able turkey.

If you’ve never cooked turkey tenderloin before, have no fear! It’s very similar to making pork tenderloin and is done in just a few simple steps.

What is turkey tenderloin?

Glad you asked! Turkey breast tenderloins are super tender, lean cuts of turkey breast, and typically range in size from a half-pound to 1 full pound per tenderloin. Because they’re super lean, you’ll need to be careful to not overcook your turkey tenderloin as this can result in a really dry end product. They also don’t have a ton of flavor on their own, so you’ll want to use plenty of seasoning.

Is turkey tenderloin the same as turkey breast?

Not quite! The turkey tenderloin is a portion of the turkey breast and it is boneless and skinless. A turkey breast, on the other hand, is usually bone-in, skin-on. We have a great roasted turkey breast recipe if you’re looking for one!

Should you marinate turkey tenderloin?

We think marinating turkey tenderloin is a fantastic idea. As mentioned before, because this cut is super lean, it dries out REALLY easily and is lower on flavor. Luckily, a flavorful marinade can prevent that and give you really delicious, well-seasoned meat!

How to Keep Turkey Tenderloin Moist

When cooking turkey tenderloins, there are two things that we always do to ensure the moistest, juiciest meat possible. First, we let our tenderloins sit in a marinade for at least 30 minutes (longer if we have time). This guarantees a really great flavor, and it goes a long way in helping the meat to stay moist and tender. We also like to sear the tenderloins in a skillet before sticking them into the oven to bake. Searing the meat not only caramelizes the marinade, but it also locks in a ton of moisture!

How to eat honeysuckle

Garlic Herb Turkey Tenderloin Ingredients

You’ll just need a few pantry and fridge staples to make this ultra-flavorful marinade!

The quintessential early bird, American Robins are common sights on lawns across North America, where you often see them tugging earthworms out of the ground. Robins are popular birds for their warm orange breast, cheery song, and early appearance at the end of winter. Though they’re familiar town and city birds, American Robins are at home in wilder areas, too, including mountain forests and Alaskan wilderness.

Find This Bird

Look for American Robins running across lawns or stalking earthworms in your yard or a nearby park. Since robins sing frequently, you can find them by listening for their clear, lilting musical whistles. In winter they may disappear from your lawn but could still be around. Look for flocks of them in treetops and around fruiting trees, and listen for their low cuck notes.

Other Names

  • Zorzal Americano (Spanish)
  • Merle d’Amérique (French)

Backyard Tips

This species often comes to bird feeders. Find out more about what this bird likes to eat and what feeder is best by using the Project FeederWatch Common Feeder Birds bird list.

Consider putting up a nest structure to attract a breeding pair. Make sure you put it up well before breeding season. Find out more about providing nest structures on our Attract Birds pages. You’ll find plans for building nest structures of the appropriate size on our All About Birdhouses site.