How much sun does a fuchsia need? As a general rule, fuchsias don’t appreciate a lot of bright, hot sunlight and do best with morning sunlight and afternoon shade. However, actual fuchsia sun requirements depend on a couple of factors. Read on to learn more.
Fuchsia Sunlight Requirements
Below you will find information about fuchsia sun needs based on the most common factors influencing the growth of these plants.
- Climate – Your fuchsia plants can tolerate more sunlight if you live in a climate with mild summers. On the flip side, fuchsias in a hot climate will likely do better in very light sunlight or even total shade.
- Cultivar – Not all fuchsias are created equal, and some are more sun tolerant than others. Usually, red varieties with single blossoms can withstand more sun than light colors or pastels with double blooms. ‘Papoose’ is an example of a hardy cultivar that tolerates considerable sunlight. Other hardy varieties include ‘Genii,’ ‘Hawkshead,’ and ‘Pink Fizz.’
Strategies for Growing Fuchsia in Sun
Fuchsias can tolerate more sun if their feet aren’t hot. If you don’t have a shady location, shading the pot is often the solution. This can be accomplished by surrounding the pot with petunias, geraniums or other sun-loving plants. The type of pot is also a factor. For example, plastic is much hotter than terracotta.
When it comes to fuchsia growing conditions, it’s critical that the roots don’t become bone dry, which often occurs when fuchsias are exposed to sunlight. A mature plant in a pot may need water every day and possibly twice a day in hot, dry weather. If you aren’t sure, water whenever the surface of the soil feels dry to the touch. Don’t allow the soil to remain continually soggy.
Now that you know more about how much sun a fuchsia can take, you’ll be better equipped to successfully growing this plant.
21 September, 2017
Native to Guatemala, the Buddha belly plant (Jatropha podagrica), also called the gout plant, is a tropical perennial plant that can grow up to 5 feet tall, but usually reaches 2 to 3 feet in height. Known for its swollen lower trunk that looks like a Buddha’s belly, the Buddha belly plant is an unusual and exotic-looking plant with waxy, large leaves that reach 10 to 12 inches across. The plant flowers year-round with reddish, clustered flowers that attract butterflies. The Buddha belly plant is extremely cold tender and must be grown indoors during the winter in most non-tropical climates.
Position your Buddha belly plant in full to partial sunlight during the growing season. Place the plant beside a sunny, south-facing window or outdoors in direct sunlight during the summer months.
Water your Buddha belly plant deeply once or twice each week during the growing season, allowing the soil to dry out slightly before watering.
- Native to Guatemala, the Buddha belly plant (Jatropha podagrica), also called the gout plant, is a tropical perennial plant that can grow up to 5 feet tall, but usually reaches 2 to 3 feet in height.
- Known for its swollen lower trunk that looks like a Buddha’s belly, the Buddha belly plant is an unusual and exotic-looking plant with waxy, large leaves that reach 10 to 12 inches across.
Maintain air temperatures of 70 to 85 degrees Fahrenheit during the daytime and 60 to 65 degrees at night. Don’t expose your Buddha belly plant to air temperatures below 50 degrees.
Feed your Buddha belly plant with a liquid fertilizer for succulent flowering plants once each month during the growing season. Feed the plant at half the recommended dosage rate and follow the application instructions on the label.
Reduce watering frequency to once every month during the fall and stop watering the plant during the winter dormant season. Stop fertilizing the plant in early autumn and don’t begin feeding the plant again until new growth emerges in the spring.
Although the flowers on the Buddha belly plant remain year-round, the plant will drop its leaves in the fall, signaling the beginning of its dormant season. You can propagate the Buddha belly plant by harvesting the seeds in late summer.
Keep children away from the Buddha belly plant, because its sap and fruits are extremely toxic when ingested.
Beautiful, delicate fuchsias come in thousands of varieties and colors, with multi-colored blossoms that hang and droop beautifully from baskets, planters, and pots. Often trellised in the garden, fuchsia plants can be bushy or vining and trailing.
Wild fuchsias, native to Central and South America, grow profusely in the Andes where temperatures are cool, and the air is moist. Fuchsias were named after a 16th century German botanist – Leonard Fuchs. They don’t require constant maintenance, but do plan on paying attention to them. Read on for more fuchsia growing tips.
Fuchsia Growing Tips
If you live in zones 6 or 7 and are growing fuchsia in your garden, you’ve probably chosen a “hardy” variety. Good fuchsia plant care entails planting them in soil with a pH level of 6 to 7. However, they’re fairly adaptable in many kinds of soil, so long as it drains well and quickly. Fuchsia roots don’t like to sit in water.
Fuchsias love lots of filtered light but are particularly intolerant of heat. Making sure your fuchsia baskets or planters have plenty of dappled shade and daytime temperatures well below 80 degrees F. (27 C.) will encourage a healthy bloom. Fuchsias also prefer cooler nighttime temperatures. If you’re expecting a period of hot summer weather, it’s good to have a backup plan for sheltering your fuchsia plants to support their blooming activity through the summer.
If you’re growing fuchsias indoors, a window with bright, indirect sunlight works best. However, they do like humidity and will languish if the air is too dry, whether indoors or out. Fuchsia blossoms are a wonderful treat for pollinators, so expect plenty of bees and hummers if you’re growing them outside.
Care of Fuchsias
Fuchsias will thrive and blossom more abundantly if they’re pinched back as new growth appears. When a branch has finished blooming, clip it back with clean garden shears.
You can fertilize fuchsias every couple of weeks in spring and summer, but begin to taper off feeding as fall approaches. Diluted fish emulsion works beautifully.
If you live in zones 10 or 11, your fuchsia may behave as a perennial, but in colder zones you may need to replant in spring or move your plants indoors for the winter. Snip off any dead leaves and stems and keep your plant in a cool dark environment, watering only every third or fourth week throughout the dormant period. It won’t look great, but in early spring with some fresh sunlight, water, and food, it should spring back to life.
Fuchsia plants can be subject to various fungal infections and viral diseases. Be sure to keep the area around your fuchsias free from dead leaves, stems, and other materials and debris. Watch for problems that might develop at the junctures of stem and leaf, and treat the plants with neem oil and insecticidal soap when necessary. You may want to introduce some beneficial insects to keep the bad ones away.
Fuchsias are worth the time it takes to maintain a proper environment for them. Care of fuchsias is not necessarily low maintenance, but with a little special attention their beauty is worth a bit of extra effort.
Learn how to properly care for budding fuchsias all year with these simple gardening tips.
Commonly grown in hanging baskets, there’s a lot to love about fuchsia plants, especially because there are so many selections to choose from. If planting a hardy fuchsia, it can also make a great shrub in the garden.
Pink and White Fuchsia Bells
Fuchsia packs plenty of flower power, opening hordes of blooms over a very long flowering window from spring to fall frost. Blossoms open in many hues, including purple, pink, red, white, lavender, yellow and orange. There’s easily a fuchsia flower color to please every gardener.
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The traditional flower form on these blooming beauties features an outer skirt surrounding an inner petticoat. These two flower parts are most often different colors, giving fuchsia blooms a festive feel. Sometimes the inner petticoat layer boasts rich ruffles. Fuchsia flowers easily steal the show when they’re on display, and they’re also a hummingbird magnet.
Fuchsia plants are some of the earliest ones sold in spring. Why? Because these extravagant bloomers prefer cool air. For many types, their ideal growing temperature is 55° to 80°F. Some fuchsias stop forming flowers at higher temperatures. In regions with naturally cool summers, fuchsias thrive easily. In warmer regions, fuchsia plant care must be on target to keep these bloomers happy.
To succeed with fuchsias, give them bright indirect light in most regions with protection from afternoon sun. In foggy areas of Coastal California or the Pacific Northwest, where summers are cool, full sun is fine. Fuchsias perform well in containers on porches or north-facing patios.
Protect containers from prolonged sun exposure because fuchsia plants dislike hot soil. When temperatures slip into the 90s, many fuchsia flowers drop and plants stop blooming until lower temperatures return
Soil & Watering
Fuchsias are fussy about soil. It can’t be too wet, too dry or too hot. In containers, use a commercial bagged potting mix developed for the close confines of a pot. These mixes are soil-less, lightweight and drain well. Mix in a handful of compost to enhance soil fertility. To keep soil from overheating, site your fuchsia where the pot is shaded through much of the day. A porch, north-facing deck or partially shaded location works well. You can also create some shade by surrounding your fuchsia pot with other containers that shade it.
Successful fuchsia plant care requires attention to soil moisture. Avoid letting soil in containers dry out completely. Keep soil moist, but don’t overwater. The best gauge for knowing when to water is shoving your finger into soil or lifting the container. Wet soil is heavy; dry pots are light.
Fertilizing & Growth
To encourage fuchsia flowers to form in record numbers, pinch out growing tips until flower buds form. This works if you overwinter fuchsias or buy small seedlings. Removing stem tips causes stems to branch and become bushy. More branches mean more flowers.
For plants in full bloom when you buy them, keep the flower show going strong by watering with a water-soluble bloom booster fertilizer every 7 to 10 days. Slow-release bloom booster fertilizers work, too, but for fuchsias in containers, plants need more nutrients more often than a slow release delivers. Pair a slow release bloom booster with a weekly dose of water soluble bloom booster at half the recommended rate.
The last step in encouraging fuchsia flower formation is to remove the berry-like fruits that form on plants. They’ll appear as hard green fruits at first, then slowly ripen to a softer, often purple fruit. All types are edible, although many are flavorless or have an unpleasant aftertaste. Fuchsia splendens is supposed to have the tastiest fruit that folks use to make jam.
To overwinter fuchsia, bring plants indoors prior to the first hard freeze. Cut plants back by at least half. Place them in a cool location, like an unheated bedroom or basement, where the temperature hovers near 45° to 50°F (temps near 60° F are okay). Water occasionally—just enough to keep roots from drying out. Leaves will drop until you have a pot of bare stems.
In spring, after all danger of frost has passed, carry your pot outdoors. Replace the first inch or two of soil with compost-laced potting mix; water thoroughly. As new growth appears, trim branches. Pinch growing tips until first flower buds appear. Pinching results in bushier plants. Overwintering works best for fuchsias you planted yourself in a blend of potting mix and compost. It’s tough to overwinter hanging baskets because the soil mix they’re in tends to dry out and won’t rehydrate.
Fuchsia plants are native to Central and South America, Australia and Tahiti. While most are grown as annuals in the United States, a few hardy fuchsias survive in regions with mild winters. Fuchsia magellanica, known as hardy fuchsia, survives in Zones 6 to 9. Also known as bush fuchsia, this fuchsia grows 4 to 10 feet tall and 3 to 6 feet wide.
There’s a cultivar for virtually every condition in the country including cold climates.
- ‘Molonae’ tolerates temperatures at about minus 10 degrees F. In fall, cut it down to the ground.
‘Neon Tricolor’ fuchsia is also hardy in low temperatures down to zero to 10 degrees Fahrenheit. Its flowers are pink, orange and yellow.
‘Queen Esther,’ on the other hand, loves heat, not the cold.
Depending on their exposure to the sun, some fuchsias can also change foliage colors, like Fuchsia magellanica ‘Aurea’ which is golden in sunshine and green in shade.
How To Care For Fuchsias
Guide To Planting And Growing Fuchsias (Ladies’ Eardrops)
The genus Fuchsia is a member of the evening primrose family, Onagraceae. Also known as “ladies’ eardrops” due to the pendant effect of the flower shape and hanging habit. Fuchsias produce masses of flowers in shades of pink, purple and white, with blooms that can be single, double or semi-doubles. It is one of the most reliable and popular summer flowering shrubs in the Pacific Northwest, flowering from late spring through early autumn until the first frost. As with clematis flower, the sepals are brightly coloured, and these modified leaves also give beauty to the fuchsia flower. Fuchsias are easy to care for. Below are tips for how to plant, grow and prune or overwinter your fuchsias – keeping them healthy and blooming year after year.
Fuchsias are native to Central and South America, and New Zealand. Named in honour of Leonhart Fuchs, a 16th-century German botanist, they were first revealed by the French botanist Charles Plumier around 1696–1697. Fuchsias continue to be cherished for the arching branches and masses of tropical-looking flowers. Some ornamental fuchsia shrubs are substantial, growing over three metres (10 feet) while others are trailing varieties – perfect for hanging baskets. Where to plant and how to care and prune fuchsias is divided into two groups, winter hardy fuchsias and half-hardy (semi-hardy) fuchsias.
About Hardy Fuchsias
Winter hardy fuchsias may have a delicate look, but they are anything but. They are often favoured for their summer beauty and ease of care. They are generally upright and bushy shrubs with a range of sizes. Some hardy fuchsias behave like herbaceous perennials, while others are deciduous shrubs. Our mature and reliable Fuchsia magellanica “Alba” stands over 2.5 metres (8 feet), and the slim, pale pink flowers are loved by hummingbirds and bees. It can withstand the coastal winters, and annual hard pruning to keep it in shape, generally done late winter. More about pruning hardy fuchsias below. Hardy fuchsias work well as companion shrubs along with camellias, flowering dogwood trees, and rhododendrons. If you have one of the taller hardy fuchsias, like the F. magellanica, they can provide filtered sun to lily of the valley and hostas.
About Half-hardy (Semi-hardy) Fuchsias
Half-hardy fuchsias are beautiful during the summer months. Although they are often referred to as ‘annuals,’ half-hardy fuchsias are tender perennials. This means that they are not winter hardy and cannot sustain cold winters, or even frosty weather, like their hardy counterpart. A half-hardy fuchsia can flower for more than just the summer months in a conservatory, sunroom, or greenhouse. But outdoors in colder regions, they mostly feature as a summer border plant and often used for container gardening – the trailing varieties are stunning in hanging baskets. Half-hardy fuchsias can survive the winter but only in a frost-free environment – conditions that most gardeners can easily create. More details below how to overwinter your half-hardy fuchsia.
Fuchsias At A Glance
Type: Deciduous/herbaceous perennials (hardy); Tender perennials (half-hardy)
Location: Full sun (mornings) / Part sun
Blooming Season: Summer
When to prune: Early spring (see details below)
Plant Hardiness Zones: 6 – 9 (hardy fuchsias)
Where To Plant And How To Grow Fuchsias
Winter Hardy fuchsias are low maintenance plants. Best suited for a sunny to part sunny location. They can tolerate full sun if protected from the hot mid-day summer sun. Best is an east-facing location in full sun. They thrive in fertile, moist, well-drained soil. The best time to plant a hardy fuchsia is in the spring. When planting your fuchsia, add plenty of organic matter into the soil and regularly water it until established. New plants benefit from a light mulch before the winter to help it through its first few years. Larger plants establish quicker than smaller fuchsias. See below about pruning hardy fuchsias in early spring.
Half-hardy fuchsias make excellent summer container plants and look beautiful as a border specimen. They thrive best in a location with morning sun but sheltered from the hot summer afternoon sun. Water regularly and especially in hanging baskets to prevent drying out. Fuchsias like moist soil but do not do well when it is soggy. Ensure the container drains well. For endless masses of blossoms, fertilize with potash-rich liquid feed weekly.
How To Overwinter Half-hardy Fuchsias
Half-hardy fuchsias are not frost hardy and cannot survive outdoors during cold winters. But with the right environment, they can be overwintered where they stay dormant until the following spring. The guidelines for overwintering your half-hardy fuchsias are easy.
If your fuchsia is in the garden bed, fork up the plant in the early autumn time and plant it in a pot. It should then be placed in a cool, dry location, safe from frost. Suitable areas tend to be a basement or garage, or if you have a greenhouse that keeps to a minimum of 5C (41F). Any frost will kill your half-hardy fuchsia. Watering your fuchsias once a month should be enough to keep your plant alive why it ‘naps’. Even though it is dormant, don’t let it dry out over the winter months. The ideal indoor temperature should be around 10C (50F).
In early spring, start to bring it out of dormancy by placing your fuchsia by sheltered sunny window but away from any direct indoor heat source, as a sudden change will stress the plant too much. Once you start to see new growth, cut back the previous woody stems to a pair of healthy buds. Water as needed and begin applying liquid feed. After the last frost, you can place your fuchsia outside. Adjusting it slowly to outdoors will ensure your fuchsia returns to its full summer glory.
When And How To Prune Winter Hardy Fuchsia Shrubs
Your winter hardy fuchsia should be pruned annually after the last frost in early spring – just when you start to see new growth forming. Remove any old stems that are not growing in the right direction and pruning back to a pair of buds. Cut back all weak and thin stems. If not training as a ‘tree’ but as a shrub cut back all main stems to about 10-12 cm (4-5 inches) from the ground level. This will stimulate new growth. Our experience with healthy, hardy fuchsias are just that; they are sturdy and forgiving when pruned and thrive after being trimmed back. Do not be alarmed by the sap leaking from the cut branch after pruning your hardy fuchsia. This is a normal process that will heal.
A large fuchsia being trained as a small ‘tree’ will have a mature woody stem. It must be self-supporting, or the main stems can snap from the unbalanced weight. When we inherited a mature hard fuchsia, it was somewhat neglected and towering over us at about 2 metres (6.5 feet). It was a jumbled mess of crossing branches, and one of the two large main stems had grown nearly horizontally, causing a stress break. In early spring, we started the initial stages of remedial pruning needed. We pruned the older main woody stems down to about 1 metre (3 feet). Always cut back to where healthy buds are forming. We then removed all the deadwood, weak and thin stems at ground level. By late spring, it was flourishing again.
Fuchsias are one of the mainstays of the summer garden. They produce masses of delightful, pendant, bell-like flowers for months on end, from early June to the first severe frosts of autumn.
Fuchsias provide colourful displays in beds and borders, hanging baskets and all manner of containers. Hardy fuchsias can even be used to make informal flowering hedges. They are so popular, that fuchsias have their own national society – the British Fuchsia Society – plus numerous local clubs and societies.
How to grow fuchsias
Fuchsias will grow perfectly well in either full sun or partial shade, with shelter from cold winds. They will appreciate some shade at the hottest part of the day during very hot summer days. To flower profusely, they need a fertile, moist but well-drained soil.
When growing in containers, make sure you use a good multi-purpose compost or one with added John Innes.
There are literally hundreds of varieties of fuchsias in a wealth of different colours and colour combinations. Most produce relatively small flowers, whereas the so-called ’Turbo’ varieties produce quite large flowers.
There are small, simple, single-petalled varieties all the way up to those that are multi-petalled and large enough to sit in the palm of your hand.
Fuchsias are divided into three broad groups:
Bush fuchsias grow upright into bushy plants.
Trailing or basket fuchsias produce long, trailing stems, making them perfect for hanging baskets and adorning the edges of containers.
Both bush and hanging fuchsias are regarded as being half-hardy perennials, that is they won’t survive temperatures below 4-5C (40-41F) and need overwintering in frost-free conditions, if you want to keep them for subsequent years.
Hardy fuchsias are bushy varieties generally regarded as being frost tolerant and can be left out in the garden all year round. The boundaries between hardy and non-hardy are somewhat blurred, and varieties that are hardy in mild climates, such as in Cornwall, may not be hardy in more exposed, colder regions of the country.
Some fuchsias also produce colourful red-tinged or purple foliage.
Half-hardy varieties are planted out in May/June after the danger of frost has passed. Hardy species and varieties should be planted in spring or early summer.
Dig a good sized planting hole, big enough to easily accommodate the rootball. Add a layer of organic matter – such as compost or planting compost – to the base of the hole and fork it in.
Place the rootball in the planting hole and adjust the planting depth so that it is planted at the same depth as it was originally growing (except hardy fuchsias) and the top of the roots are level with the soil surface. Plant hardy fuchsias slightly deeper, with 2.5-5cm (1-2in) of the stems below soil level.
Mix in more organic matter with the excavated soil and fill in the planting hole. Water in well, apply a granular general feed over the soil around the plant and add a 5-7.5cm (2-3in) deep mulch of well-rotted garden compost or bark chippings around the root area.
Suggested planting locations and garden types
Flower borders and beds, patios, containers, city and courtyard gardens, cottage and informal gardens.
How to care for fuchsias
Once established, fuchsias growing in the ground will probably need a thorough watering once a week, especially during prolonged dry periods.
In containers, water regularly, especially in summer, to keep the compost evenly moist but not waterlogged. Do not allow the plants to sit in water.
Feed hardy fuchsias each spring and again in summer with a general granular plant food.
A high potash liquid plant food applied regularly throughout summer will encourage more, better blooms over a long flowering period until the first autumn frosts.
To keep plants flowering profusely, deadhead them regularly to remove faded flowers and the developing seed pod/fruit behind them.
The stems of hardy fuchsias should be cut down to just above ground level in late spring, preferably just as new growth is seen.
Pinch out the tips of shoots of young bush and trailing fuchsias to produce bushier plants that will flower more profusely. The tips of resulting sideshoots can also be pinched out if necessary, but excessive pinching out will delay flowering.
Half-hardy bush and trailing fuchsias should be lifted from the ground in autumn, before temperatures drop below 5C (41F), and overwintered in a frost-free place.
First tidy them up by removing all dead, dying, damaged or diseased growth, and cut them back by around half if necessary to keep them compact. Then pot them up in pots just big enough to accommodate their roots and some extra potting compost around the outside. Then put them in a cool greenhouse, conservatory or similar well-lit place. They can also be overwintered in a frost-free shed or garage, providing they have become dormant and dropped all their leaves.
Standard fuchsia should always be overwintered frost-free, as the main stem is prone to cold damage, even if the variety is regarded as being hardy.
Hardy fuchsias can be kept in the garden overwinter, but may need some protection to ensure they come through unscathed, particularly in cold regions and severe winters.
Protect the roots and the crown by applying a thick mulch of bark, compost or even straw around the plants in autumn.Don’t cut down the stems until spring, when new growth begins.
Hardy fuchsias growing in containers may be prone to frost damage even in reasonably mild winters, so protect the container to prevent the compost and roots freezing solid.
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Fuchsia magellanica, commonly known as hardy fuchsia, is prized for its showy flowers, which attract hummingbirds and butterflies and an ability to perform well even under foggy conditions or with maritime exposure. The hardy fuchsia is cultivated as a deciduous shrub across U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 6 through 9 and grows 4 to 10 feet tall with a similar spread. Proper site selection and preparation and excellent cultural care will help you to successfully grow a vigorous, profusely flowering hardy fuchsia.
Plant or position the hardy fuchsia in a site with partial shade. If the site is frequently foggy, the fuchsia may be grown successfully in a spot that receives mostly sunlight.
Maintain an organic mulch like shredded leaves, wood chips or dried, weed seed-free grass clippings in a loose layer 2 to 3 inches thick around the hardy fuchsia. Pull the mulch back at least 6 inches from the fuchsia stem and spread it out to at least the shrub’s drip line, the imaginary line on the ground that reflects the edge of the shrub’s canopy.
Water the hardy fuchsia regularly when rainfall is inadequate or whenever the soil about an inch below the soil surface feels dry to the touch. As a general rule, use a drip or regular hose turned on to a slow trickle to wet the top 8 inches of soil evenly around the fuchsia. As long as the hardy fuchsia is not suffering from any leaf spot or other fungal diseases, occasionally use a sprinkler or overhead irrigation and water the foliage. This will wash dust and even some pests off the plant.
Fertilize the hardy fuchsia monthly with a complete, balanced, water-soluble fertilizer when it is actively growing and flowering or less frequently with a granular, slow-release fertilizer sprinkled over the ground around the shrub and watered in.
Pinch off the tips of growing fuchsia branches regularly, as desired, once growth begins to emerge each year, to encourage dense, bushy growth and more blooms. Always pinch the tender growth back to just above a pair of leaves. Stop pinching in summer or once flower buds begin to develop.
Cut off fuchsia flowers when they begin to fade. Removing the spent flowers encourages further blooming and keeps the fuchsia from devoting energy to seed production.
Prune the hardy fuchsia in late winter or early spring once the danger of cold damage has passed but before spring growth begins. Cut off any crossing, rubbing, damaged or dead branches and shape the shrub as desired. Make each cut at a slight angle and just above a branch junction.
Monitor the hardy fuchsia, inspecting it for pests and diseases. Various species of aphids, scales, mealy bugs, mites thrips and whiteflies can attach fuchsias. These pests are often controlled sufficiently by natural predators as long as conditions are not dusty and a broad-spectrum, persistent pesticide was not used. If necessary, pruning off heavily infested portions, spraying the plant with a forceful stream of water to knock off pests or thoroughly spraying the plant with horticultural oil or insecticidal soap will usually curb pest problems. Botrytis blight or gray mold and rusts can affect fuchsias. If leaves on the plant are covered with spots or the flowers look moldy, prune out the diseased parts, rake up any fallen debris and avoid sprinkler or overhead irrigation.
Many people grow Fuchsia plants in their gardens. However, it is also possible to grow these plants in containers. If you wish to do so, make sure to provide your Fuchsias with everything they need to thrive. This is very important because these plants’ wellbeing depends on the necessary conditions that you need to provide.
Containers for Potted Fuchsias
The ideal location to grow Fuchsia plants are shaded patios and balconies. These places need to have some light but it is also important to make sure that your Fuchsia plants have some shade. Some people also choose to grow hanging varieties of these plants suspended from the rafters of lath houses.
One of the first things you need to consider are the containers for your potted Fuchsia plants. In order for your potted Fuchsia to thrive, you need to have a large enough pot. Think larger than 10 inch containers: anything smaller than a 10 inch pot is too small for this plant.
In case that these large pots are not an option for you, you may try 8 inch pots for smaller varieties of Fuchsia plants. Again, 10 inch and larger pots are preferred, but you may try an 8 inch one if you choose to grow smaller varieties.
Growing Fuchsias in Hanging Pots
If you choose to grow your Fuchsias in hanging pots, make sure to water them daily during the growing season. Another thing you should do is to feed your Fuchsia plants with liquid manure every 10 days or so. This is necessary because potted plants have limited soil capacity but tend to grow vigorously. In order to make them thrive and provide them with all the necessary nutrients, it is important to apply some manure.
Those who grow their Fuchsia plants in hanging containers need to pinch the shoots on their plants. Do this until the buds appear. Pinching is important because it will promote branching in your plants. Similarly, you should remove all faded flowers and developing berries in order to prolong the blooming time of your plant.
Also, it is best to use glazed clay pots instead of porous ones, if possible. Some people who live in warm areas have a great success with moss-lined wire baskets instead of traditional pots. However, they don’t always work perfectly so clay pots are still the main type of containers to use for your hanging Fuchsias.
Another quick note: if you wish to grow Fuchsias in hanging pots, make sure to do it for maximum two years before renewing.
Ideal Potting Mix
When potting a Fuchsia plant in a container, make sure that the pot you use is well-drained. Always use only soil that is porous and of good enough quality. One of the best options for Fuchsia potting mix consists of 1/3 sand, 1/3 leafmold and 1/3 loam. It is also useful to add some cow manure to the mix.
Keep in mind that you don’t have to make your special Fuchsia potting mix. Many of the commercially available potting mixes you can buy will be suitable for Fuchsia plants, as long a as they are of decent quality and porous enough. Many of these bagged potting mixes also contain some fertilizer, which can be an added bonus for your plants.
Potted Fuchsias Care Tips
Here are some important tips on how to care for your potted Fuchsias. Some of these refer to new plants in growing while others are true for all Fuchsia plants in containers:
Once you plant your Fuchsia, you need to monitor it regularly. Water it and apply liquid fertilizer every 10 days or so. Keep in mind that many newly potted Fuchsias, particularly those grown in greenhouses, will develop vigorous growth from their potting early in Spring to the mid-May. In May, you will end up with large, leafy plants that are 8 to 10 inches in height.
This is also the time when your plant will start to show buds. You should water with liquid plant food every 10 days when your Fuchsias are the most active.
Many people make mistakes with Fuchsia plants during the stage of leafy growth. This is a sensitive time so you need to be careful with the care you provide to your plants. It is crucial that the plants are well-protected from frost. At the same time, do not keep your Fuchsias at too high temperatures during the night. Keep the temperatures low and give your plants maximum ventilation during the day. Keep in mind that Fuchsia plants hate high temperatures as much as they hate frost.
Your Fuchsia should never become potbound, dry or starved. As soon as you see the roots filling up the container, make sure to repot your plant. You should water and feed your Fuchsias regularly to promote strength and growth in your plant.
Fuchsia plants should always be kept away from drying winds. This may not seem important for potted plants indoors but make sure that there is no draft in the house.
It is best to start Fuchsias in the spring. You can start when the chance of frost has passed. If you wish to keep your plants indoors, you can start them as early as January or February.
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Careing for Fuchsia Hanging Baskets- Our Quarantined Gardeners #78 YouTube Video
Beginning Gardener Fuchsia Hanging Baskets Care
You might by now have already bought your fuchsia hanging baskets and are ready to see them burst with different flower colors, BUT do you know how to care for them?
On this DIY Garden Minute, we give you 3 quick care tips so you can have beautiful and colorful fuchsia hanging baskets all summer long.
Quick Tip #1:
Your fuchsia’s will need to be watered at least once a week, but could need to be watered even twice a week or more, depending on how warm and dry your summer days get.
We schedule our watering in our phone calendars and use a mix of a Dramm rainwand and watering can.
Make sure to check each fuchsia baskets soil for any moisture by using your finger to poke down into the soil.
If you feel lots of moisture, hold off watering for a day or two.
Check each fuchsia every day if it needs watering during the hottest and most extreme parts of the summer where you live.
Quick Tip #2:
Be sure to hang each of your fuchsia baskets in mostly shaded areas, like under your homes’ eaves or on a tree branch or other hanging areas and structures.
Make sure that any of your fuchsia’s don’t get direct full sun for any longer than an hour.
If they do, their leaves can start to look discolor and they will start to look anemic or unhealthy.
Quick Tip #3:
Make sure to fertilize your fuchsia plants every other week or every week so they can stay healthy and actively keep growing more leaves, stems, and flowers over the summer months.
A balanced fertilizer of 8-8-8 or 12-12-12 will do the trick, but even “flower” specific fertilizers can work well to encourage any of your plants to continue to produce and more throughout the growing season.
Watch Our #Shorts Video To See Sean Talk About Each Quick Tip
You can find more specific seed sowing and growing information when you order our new book “The First-time Gardener: Growing Plants and Flowers” on Amazon, available now!
We have partnered with Eden Brothers to be able to give you 15% off your next purchase when you enter the coupon code “SPOKEN” at checkout.
Get your high-quality seeds fast from Eden Brothers.com.
I f you aren’t sure where to start learning about garden care, go to our Start Here page at spokengarden.com/start-here .
And, i f you have questions about these or other plants, we are here to help, so please email us.
Thanks for Listening.
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